I aim for over 24 hours but I know a lot of other folks don’t 
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thanks, i will just use another board to get to work then lol
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ah, I didn’t know esk8supply was on the naughty list. note taken. thanks
If it sparks, you killed it and need a new one. And that means you’re too slow when plugging it in
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No, it sparks. You’ll see a huge spark coming out of it when you plug it in too fast (<don’t do this). Always plug it in as slow as you can. Doing so will keep it lasting longer. Or, just find a company that has a anti spark switch. Get one that can handle large amps (my anti sparks goes up to 180amps).
Edited. My apologies getting this confused.
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You can tack it onto the esc where power goes into it that’s the battery voltage going into there and what you want to read otherwise I’ve also tacked things like this onto the xt-90 coming from the battery on your custom connector harness up top.
Regarding antispark plugs just important that they get fully seated plugging in slow is actually better since gives time for voltage to stabilize going through the resistor instead of letting current rush in for the voltage to match. Making sure they end up fully plugged in before drawing a lot of current is important as well or will fry the resistor in the plug.
For ones without the antispark it is best to get the connection in one shot if possible but if you don’t the capacitors on esc will hold some of the charge already applied to them so a subsequent connection you won’t see as big of a spark if at all. Once the connectors looks charred I’d usually replace but have switched over to just using anti spark for lipos or have bms that controls on off for a liion setup (was built into prebuilt battery from metroboards)
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This is totally wrong. The whole concept of an antispark loopkey is to plug it in slowly so that the capacitors can be pre-charged by a resistor before the main low-resistance contacts are closed.
Shoving it all the way in as fast as you can defeats the whole purpose.
^^^ EXACTLY this.^^^
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so would I just match up the negative and postitive wires with the negative and psoitive going into the esc?
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Ah. I’ve seen people plug it fast, apologies if I got it wrong. Just something I’ve seen.
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Better to read it from the vesc app. But if you really want to use it, put one end on positive and one on the negative at the area closest to the esc side. Putting it at the battery side will cause it to remain on.
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Yup voltage meters just hook red to red and black to black and want them on whatever lines you want to measure voltage on if you go direct to the pack the meter won’t turn off when you pull anti spark but if you hook up on esc or as @Leon pictured then volt meter will only be on when your antispark is plugged in and the esc is getting power (probably good call so meter isn’t just draining battery).
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Okay, got it. Thank you!
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My first noob question! I’d like to mount a couple of 18v tool batteries in series to the top of my Evolve CGT deck, and use them as a reserve to limp home when the built in battery runs out. I have some 3D printer files for mounting them. What would be the best way to wire them into the current stock set up? The easiest way would be to connect them via the charge port but it doesn’t seem the most efficient and I don’t know if that would be bad for the internal battery. I assume they could bypass the BMS since they have their own inbuilt BMS. Thanks in advance for suggestions.
Then explain how so many loopkeys are killed from inserting slowly? Personally killed 4 the first time because I did exactly that
Edit: this might actually answer my own question
I don’t have a switch. This would result in inrush killing my key before finishing the full plug
That is not the best idea in the first place. While drill tools can push quite a few amps, they are terrible in energy stored/kg.
Then you need to obtain an actual charge circuit. One that takes whatever the total voltage from your drill batteries is, and transforms it into 42v cc/cv.
If you just plug it in, not only you will blow up something, but you risk starting a battery fire and you don’t really have a chance putting that out.
If you want more range and really want to keep the evolve, there are a few battery upgrades possible, but they are all expensive or a lot of work to do
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Unless you have some bonkers-huge capacitors or you try to spin the motors, the inrush current (the current needed to charge the capacitors, nothing more) shouldn’t be enough to overheat your resistors.
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The inrush current from plugging a couple of fully charged drill batteries directly into your fully-empty
built-in one will destroy something for sure. The best bet would be to set up some kind of transfer switch to completely disconnect the internal battery and connect the drill packs in its place. Don’t use the charge port or the charge port wiring, it’s not designed to handle the power.
It would be best to have some way to switch to a reduced power mode, because even the most powerful drill batteries are only rated for 20-25A.
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If I want to read things like voltage and other data from the vesc (or ackmaniac?) app I need a bluetooth module right?
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