Correct. They have it for a different hub motor, but not the ones I have. Unfortunate. Basically I just want the motors since I have the trucks that fits them.
1 Like
First off, love the name. Made me laugh. Second, what anime is your picture from lol
1 Like
Thanks haha. It’s Yui from OreGairu; This is off topic, but I highly reccommend the show.
2 Likes
So my Flipsky escs came today and I was wondering:
-
Is it common to mount your escs in a way where the heatsink is exposed to fresh air? Or is leaving the esc in you enclosure with no venting just fine?
-
What is the SWD port/its purpose? And is the COMM port same as UART?
Depending on the esc that you brought, if its a dual ESC with the heatsink at the bottom, its best to make a hole for it for cooling, unless you’re going to add thermal paste in the enclosure. Others are pretty safe inside. Just make sure to add electric tape. Otherwise, a wire will fall out and it will break your esc.
The second part might be answered by another. I didn’t buy flipsky so I can’t answer that.
They’re more of a pain to make.
With a keyway, you start with a round hole (easy) and remove some material in the shape of the keyway (also easy).
With a D bore, you can’t start with a round hole and add material back in 'till it’s a D. You have to make the hole D-shaped to begin with, and I dunno about you, but I’ve never seen a drill bit that can drill D-shaped holes. So you either have to wire EDM it, (hard), or broach it, (hard), or have it molded into your part (hard.)
3 Likes
I’m freaking tired so don’t quote me on this:
Swd is a port used to debug the esc. For example the microcontroller gets a glitch and bricks your esc (makes it unresponsive), you will be connecting an stm32 programmer to that port to fix it.
The comm and uart ports are not the same. While the comm port uses a communication protocol (ie:software) to talk to the different parts, the uart is a physical connection to the microcontroller.
4 Likes
I bought two of these, not a single esc for dual motors; sorry I should’ve clarified. They should be fine with no cooling then, right?
Also do you mean adding electrical tape to secure the wires and escs to the enclosure?
Thanks!
1 Like
Ohhh I see. Thanks for explaining!
1 Like
Also depends on your set up. But if you’re keeping under 30A and keep your rides to under 20miles, you should be fine. I’ve never had an external heatsink personally, but I also don’t ride for any longer than 20miles
1 Like
oooh okay cool, I’ll keep that in mind. I probably won’t be riding for more than 20 miles, and with all the intersections I have to stop at I probably won’t go above 30A lol
@Gamergirl premade? You’ll be needing a torque beast of a skate. Possibly Lacroix or a 4wd with good amp output
@Gamergirl honestly I’m not even half that (actually a third) but I don’t believe a single motored board would be capable of keeping the coast. It would require good amounts of force
accelerating, such as from a stop is when you pull the most amps. particularly up a hill.
you’re probably still fine. just calling out that more stops doesn’t mean less amps.
1 Like
I meant like when I’m accelerating from a stop at intersections; I like to get through them as fast as I can usually. Luckily there aren’t any hills by me, it’s flat af lol
1 Like
Oh those. Yeah, I’d say add electrical tape like so:
The reason why I say to add it is because there were people who broke their esc, and it was because their wires came off while riding (I also experienced that as well).
And those can be placed within the esc enclosure with no vent needed.
1 Like
Thanks. Seems like motors are 7A flat while speed goes up slightly. It’s the same cc as vx1. If you lift the wheels it probably reaches straight to full speed
1 Like
I would absolutely avoid electrical tape.
Firstly, it leaves glue behind everything it touches for more than 5 minutes. Like, cheese strings kinda glue.
Secondly, the glue on electrical tape is not made for high temp. It softens like that gum you left in the sun at 50°.
Ziptie connectors that can be ziptied, use kapton tape on small, non-essential things like remote wires. Maybe double sided foam tape for the receivers.
Finally, velcro strips for the heavy components. Don’t go overkill or you will have trouble removing stuff. Fill up with foam cut chunks/strips (neoprene works, just know that it doesn’t resist tension in time) for very big gaps like sides and to the “ceiling” of the enclosure space and test if anything rattles inside. For the “ceiling”, things like egg crate foam works as well
2 Likes
Look into white wave long boards or anything carbon fiber. That will help you on weight.