Yeah, it’ll work.
Just go slow and be careful not to cut into the steel axle at all. You only want to remove the aluminum around the outside, but none of the steel.
Gone as in removed or out of stock?
Oh ok, I’ll do that then
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Did it work before the remote drop?
It was.
i even got it to work after i dropped the remote but just barely. After i came home most of what you read happened.
I was riding, stopped to swap battery, remote fell out of my jacked while i turned the board back on. (Remote was off i think) and boom, abs-overcurrent. After restarting it multiple times and switching to the other metr module on the slave i was able to ride home.
So there was also a battery swap event between working and not working?
What is your setup for that?
Correct.
Started riding with 10s4p until empty
Put 10s 4p in backpack and pulled 12s1p (lipo) out.
connected it like always (both have the same harness, on each of their box)
here it gets blurry.
either put loopkey in, and then dropped remote
or dropped remote while putting it in.
non blurry again. Opened metr to apply 12s mode, applied throttle to test = abs_overcurrent.
Power cycled the board and metr app multiple times.
When connecting to metr pro on slave it was able to connect, on the master it wasn’t.
On the slave i got no abs fault if i didn’t touch anything programming related. That way i was able to slowly ride the 8km home. Once home i tested everything again and it got worse and worse to the point where neither worked.
while limping home i had full control. Accelerate, brake, see telemetry, both motors reacted to the input as if nothing happened.
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I got an abs over current on a esc that had a bad phase wire connection.
↑ apparently this would have happened at the very end of the ride. The previous 10km or so were full on through a forest. After leaving the forest on flat ground and changing the battery it came apparent
Sounds almost like a hardware dead problem caused by a voltage spike
But IDK, hard to say from afar. Maybe @seaborder can take a look-see
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What am I look at to get it to us and how long??
Also would you have what is needed to put cloud or cloud type wheels on.
Sorry I’m new to all this, and from what I’m learning clouds are for the noobi that can’t carve. Witch by the way I am getting better at! Lol
However, I do love the feel or the clouds going over ruff stuff. I’m currently riding an exway flex w/the 105 clouds and absolutely loving it . I’m looking to ride with my 14 yr old daughter so I’ll either be giving her my flex and getting something better or going the cheep way and getting her something I’m probably going to regret. That and I’d love some more acceleration and range compared to my flex…
open to all suggestions
Thanx
Marc
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is this sag normal? sorry for the noise. screen recording didn’t have time to fool with the settings.
I’m just messing with ya. They’re fine.
I am not familiar with unity telemetry through metr but that is not normal from my experience with my particular pack/cell combo. The amount of sag would depend on your cells performance in that voltage range and where they are in their life cycle.
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LG MH1 cells the battery is not that old…i guess it’s time to get a new battery.
Don’t take my word for it. We need some more experienced folks. I’ve spent a lot of time looking at my logs closely, though.
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What is the configuration of the battery?
And what are your battery and motor amp settings?
10s5p LG MH-1 cells 50A discharge BMS
ESC settings Unity
Max Battery 45A
Max Motor 43A
Voltage cutoff
start 31V
end 29V
that’s the metr percentage battery display.
can you do that again with the voltmeter instead?
or upload and share the log.
what are your settings for battery in metr. do the appropraitely match your battery “voltage S”: 10 and Battery type: Lion
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Its pretty significant sag considering it doesnt look like you are pulling more than 20a.
I’d probably recommend opening the battery and inspecting it.
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