Neither worked. I guess ill try increase the Current until its smoother?
That current is probably high enough.
Does the motor pass the hand test?
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I mean, you can try a higher setting but I wouldn’t go much over double those numbers. For all 3 numbers. I would hand test the motor
I just hand tested it and all seemed good. Also the belts aren’t tight during detection but I could try it with no belts attached?
Since the volts and not the amps are important for top speed, as far as I understood, are the Esk8 calculators for nominal voltage aka 3.6V / Cell or 4.2V / Cell?
Don’t know if I should go:
- 190KV | 15T/40T | 110mm @90% efficiency 48kmh weighted
- 190KV | 15T/44T | 110mm @90% efficiency 44kmh weighted
People here say to subtract like 5kmh of top speed for real values?
I want to be able to hit just over 40kmh, the rest of the power should be used for torque and more importantly battery life.
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I get to 50km/h with single 190kv 6374 | 15/36 | 110mm but not sure if i ran 10s or 12s. (can check though) 100+kg
edit : 10s
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20200705_131002
It feels so gross 
. I can’t really push my board to start with straps either. I might just wait till I go 10s and just run FOC
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Yeah that’s way too fast for me on my streetboard 
Calculator says I should reach 56 or something, so that proves the 5kmh subtraction thing…
Alright thanks!
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Do a hip flick
Although with bindings I would use HFI or sensors
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Sure Ill do that. Except BLDC Sensored doesn’t work and the motors just lock up haha. Problem after problem atm. Thanks for your help though!
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ftfy
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If you’re in EU I would definitely go for @3DServisas kegel pulleys
They aren’t cheap, but they are very, very good
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Does anyone know if dickyhos revised kegel pulleys fit TB218 trucks without filing them?
Thanks! I’m sure you’re right but I hope you understand that not everybody spends that much on pulleys
Dickyho never let me down
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I have both. Lemme check.
Smooth rotation, no catching or binding. Do note that they’re designed for 12mm belts.
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Daly BMS is good but unless you have a huge enclosure the 15mm thick brick is going to want to take 5cm X 8cm of enclosure real-estate. D140 are $25 shipped if you order 2 or $30 if you order one from fasttech. Shipping is 6 weeks (some arrived last week). You have the option to upgrade to DHL.
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I have a 4.12 flipsky FSESC and i want to power additional electronic from it, something like 0.4A.
I know it’s a somewhat shitty hardware, i have plan to upgrade it but right now my noob question is on this specific hardware.
On the 4.12 description post, it says 5V 1A output for external electronics. On the flipsky product page, it’s 5V 1.5A. I’ll be conservative and bet that 1A is the real value here.
On Vedder’s PCB layout i can see that every 5V output for every communication port is linked together.
So my questions are :
- Can i realy power my 0.4A load out of a random unused 5V and GND pin on any communication port ?
- Is the 1A max is really constant or fluctuate a lot when you push very hard on the vesc ? Going up a steep hill for example.
- If it fluctuate, is there a strong possibility to see it drop below my ~0.41A constant consumption ?
I’m not that good with electronic and i don’t want to take any chances, if the remote randomly disconnect when i’m on full throttle because of some electronic voodoo magic it’s not going to be fun.
This is probably what you’re looking for. Testing to begin as soon as the boards arrive
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That’s some awesome stuff, i’ll look for that for my next big upgrade when i switch most of my electronics.
But right now i have to solve a problem in the next days using only the 4.12 hardware that i have 
.
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Don’t the lem regulators that flipshite use are super fragile anymore can case them to short and possibly kill your MCU. I killed one running esp32 with GPS. Less than 100mah
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