Get smart reverse. Motors generate current only when they spin. At low speed there is almost nothing left to oppose your movement.
Also when you pass the sensor erpm on/off point there is a noticeable shift in power
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Walking is the effect that putting heavy and powerful motors on your trucks causes. Any slight imbalance will be exaggerated by power. Trucks are designed for pushing slowly up to speed. What we do is force the speed. When we do this the truck will walk or wobble. You need to get the bushings and pivots right on your drive truck. Or tighten it the fuck up. No power system with dual motors delivers power identically to both sides and this causes an imbalance which can cause you to wobble and face plant. Plenty of ways to combat it but for starters make sure the rear truck is solid.
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thanks… you know what I’m on about!
any electronic wizardly VESC settings that help?
or is it physical hardware and equipment setup?
or growing @robot-cankles?
I’ve actually considered more than once a big-fukkin-assed motor with a shaft to power both motors…
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Oh well, then that is ridiculously easy to fix.
Only put one motor on each truck. Dual-diagonal drive configuration will fix that shit in a jiffy. You will get a tad of torquesteer but zero truck walking. Torquesteer sounds much worse than it is.
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you’re fukking cra-cra B… what you’ll have then is an america’s cup yacht that would tack well upwind…
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Same. Realistically speaking though its just a ride out situation. Its part of riding these things. You ride it out but make the rig less open diff and more limited slip.
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Have you tried dual diagonal with lots of torque before?
If you mash the throttle enough, you can even get to a situation where only the two powered wheels are even on the ground. But still no truck walking.
It will pull over to one side a little but no biggie
If your motors are rear heelside and front toeside then it will pull heelside a little bit under extreme power and pull toeside a little bit under hard braking. But no truck walking. You can just lean to correct that pull…
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You need some form of differential between wheels or the axle will bend or break eventually in corners.
That differential will then render your board useless in rough terrain situations
As a start, try bigger ramp up times in vesc? Same power, a bit longer to reach it smoothly
no
I honestly never even considered it
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d00d… on the scale we’re working at, that’s ridiculous…
we race solid live axle 900hp race cars…
do the math
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People here seem to bend/break 8mm axles though
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Honestly the 8mm axles are suprisingly resilient for me… it’s the cast truck hangers that bend like a wet noodle
Grab some BN184 hangers and your bend problems be gone
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use bigger axle
don’t hate da playa… don’t h8 the game…
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I’m with ya brother… I’ve tormented a fukkton of axles… one never knows the quality of steel…the MiL-certs… the miss-handling or misappropriate use of hardening…
i’m still of the opinion that you make your own or you play the esk8 roulette game…
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Got a bn220 on the back. Can confirm it holds even with a deep scratch right down the middle
I still wouldn’t trust a fixed axle on esk8 wheels. I think i’d be like this in every corner
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Hey All,
I’m building my first board, and got it rolling and spinning yesterday! However, the rear drive sprocket that attaches to the motor came loose a few times and isn’t staying attached, so the motors spin but the wheels dont move. I’m using a haggy drive system, and I dont see a key in the kit. However, both the motor shaft and the rear drive sprocket have a slot for a key. Do you think that not having a key is my problem? Also, the key slot on the motor is kinda curved, so will I be able to buy one? Or will I have to angle grind down some key stock I have for the gokart?
I’ll be sure to post the build once its running well!
You need that motor shaft key. Don’t let it spin like you describe, you’ll wear down both the pulley and the shaft
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Thanks! Appreciate the help. I can borrow my brothers calipers to see what key I need, or I can try and grind down some key stock I have for a go kart. How would you recommend to proceed on getting two working shaft keys?
Just see where you bought the motors from, they should include the keyway dimensions. Most common is 3x15mm i think (check, don’t trust me).
The rest depends where on the planet you are. Generally esk8 vendors around here have keys up for sale (or ask in wanted items for cheap thread and include your country)
I got 2 spare keyways, slightly too long for my flipsky motors somehow. In the uk
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Yep I agree, for motors 8mm axle is fine, but I wouldn’t mind a 10mm axle on the trucks
But mostly for piece of mind… I’ve never bent an axle before, only the cast hanger part… if I do bend one then that will change the game…
it’s the “cast aluminum” that’s the problem… I haven’t bent a billet/machined/CNC/precision aluminum hanger yet
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