Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

@b264 incoming. Hitch up your belt.

20S7P.

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In that case, yeah I would definitely go with the 10€ ones. That’s a pretty reasonable for a pack of good quality stainless inserts in my opinion, especially in a physical store rather than online.

Hell, I just checked McMaster and a matching insert there is $2.73 each. So 1€ a piece isn’t so crazy.

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@Niklas

i paid 2€ for an 8 pack of Zink Inserts

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Dude where??? :star_struck:

Obi as always ^^

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You mix hardener and binder 1:1 right? @b264
Is it okay to accelerate the hardening with warm air?
It said 1,5h and after over 2 hours now, the inserts still can be moved around in the hole

It depends which epoxy you have.

If you’re looking to accelerate hardening, then I think you might want to revisit your procedure.

Yes, warm air will accelerate it, but if you need that, then there is a separate problem that will probably still bite you in the end. So work on whatever problem that is :rofl:

If you’re dying to ride a skate and you can’t wait 2 days for epoxy to cure, then you’re also not going to wait for Loctite to cure, and you’re also going to break the skate and need to repair it. So I would weigh on the repair process whether or not you wish to break it in the first place.

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I would wait 24 hours minimum on ANY epoxy, 48 hours is better

but after a few hours you can handle it, just don’t ride it

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Alright!
But is heat + 24h better than no heat and 24h?
Does heat (warm air by hair dryer) cause any problems?

Yes, definitely. But 48h is way better than 24h + heat

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Thanks! Will wait!

We already had this conversation :joy:

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Yes, for sure. If you wait a bit, in addition to having the money for a Unity, you’ll probably have enough for two Torqueboards single ESCs which are coming soon. And if you wait a bit longer/save more, you can get a Stormcore 60D from LaCroix.

Your money is best spent on the best ESC(s) you can afford and the best battery you can afford. Because all the rest doesn’t matter if you can’t reliably supply the power your build needs.

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I want to emphasize this paragraph further for all the junior builders reading this.

Skimp everywhere else except there

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You guys reckon its crucial to include the spacer in between the bearing in front wheels? Mine just make a racket and the bearings have no way of falling inside as there’s a lip to stop them.

Help. Trying to run latest meepo hubs with boundmotor vesc. The goal is improve off the line speed but maintain max speed of meepo v3 esc. Also learn to grapple with vesc tool.
Once connected the wheel spins but judders. Thought it was a miss match with phase wires. Tried all possible hub to vesc combinations with phase wires. No joy. I disconnected the hall sensors to see if that was the problem. Still spins and judders. Using Sanyo 8.4ah 10s2p battery if that helps.

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Was that in FOC or BLDC? I’m having the same problem in BLDC

So do your motors pass detection? What message do you get from vesc tool?

Yes, not having a spacer in there will cause unnecessary axial loads on the bearings when you torque down the wheel nuts.

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