I pulled the remote back less - 1400 and it still doesn’t work. Normally 1000 is full…
Still need to check what number vesctool says. Need to reopen enclosure…
hmm, in that case I’m not sure 
smart reverse does take a good long time to start though, you have to hold full brake for 3 seconds before the wheels begin to turn
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Ok I found something weird. Reverse will not start from dead stop (@start and end of vid), only if I was moving recently…
I was testing from deadstop the whole time until now. Went for a ride. Smart reverse works normal except for that specific case 
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Tighten it down more. If it already is maxed out, are you sure that the mounts are compatible with your trucks?
Loctite 243 is good to secure screws.
They are maxed and they are compatible.
Not maxed yet. Still have a gap, so still a ways to go.
Use a pipe over the ratchet or two wrenches if you can’t turn it anymore.
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Ok thanks I’ll try it.
Morning All. I have a 250V rated fuse that I intend on using for two charge ports. One is 20s and the voltage is close enough that I believe this fuse is suitable. The other is 12s and this one I’m unsure about. Voltage rating is about 4x what a 12s will sit at fully charged. Will this still perform its intended function? TIA
The rating on fuses is a maximum when it comes to voltage. It’s a guarantee they won’t or at least shouldn’t arc across the fuse when it’s blown if the voltage is below that. As long as your voltage is below the rating you are fine.
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A higher voltage rating, on its own, is never a problem. The rating just tells you the highest voltage it can handle without arcing over when it blows.
But is that 250V rating for DC or AC? You need a DC voltage rating that is at least as high as your highest possible pack voltage and the DC rating is usually a lot lower than the AC rating.
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This was my understanding as well but I’d read elsewhere on the forum that, for e.g., a 1000V rated fuse was not suitable. Part of this was bc of size/weight but I wasn’t entirely clear if that was the only reason. Thx 
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Description does not specify if the rating is AC or DC. Indicates that the fuses can be used on a vairety of applications-
Lists use in Motorcyles and other Vehicles which have DC power.
But these are cheap Amazon fuses and all bets are off for any of the ratings.
I have some concerns…
- IMO those are AC-voltage rated fuses, without a DC rating.
- Fast blow fuses can trip when you plug in a charger and the inrush current flows.
- Glass fuses are pretty delicate for esk8.
I strongly urge you to buy proper DC-voltage rated fuses that aren’t glass. What current ratings do you need?
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I will be charging a 12s/50.4V pack at 8 amps or so and would be looking for a ~15amp fuse for that. I’m also looking to fuse a charge port on an EUC that I recently purchased at 20s/84V. Stock charger is 1.5 amp so until I get a Better/faster charger, ~3amps for that fuse.
I’ve previously used a more robust inline fuse rated for DC. I liked the form factor of these fuses and know that some well-known builders use similar fuses in their packs but ur point re ratings being inaccuarte w rando chinese vendors is well-taken.
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You could switch to ceramic fuses in the same form factor, or 1/4” x 1-1/4”, and get a decent DC voltage rating too. Probably a bit less delicate.
Most seem to be rated 125VDC/250VAC for the voltages you need to handle. Up to you for slow-blow versus fast. I would recommend Digi-Key, Mouser, Allied Elec, or Newark instead of Amazon. You can get name brand fuses that you can trust are genuine and rated accurately.
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Thx, @Battery_Mooch! I’ve found some suitable auto blade fuses on Mouser for both applications. I’ll see if I can source some cermics for the 12s. Space should be less of an issue in the EUC so I think I can get away with an inline blade fuse holder there. Cheers 
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Any other EU people know what the story is with loctite here? The reasonably large engineering supply place near me doesn’t have access to 262 or 263 at all, they have 243, 270 and then something really light like 222
270/271/272/273 are all “high strength” with slightly different properties, but they should work in place of 262/263.
Seems like 262/263 are a little better for stainless or chromate coated fasteners than the 27* series, but that’s the only big difference I can find.
Loctite 290 is often forgotten, but it’s my favorite one.
You can also apply it before OR after something is assembled.
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This means you can work on it until you get everything working how you want it to work, and then Loctite everything without taking it apart again.
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