If you don’t adjust the ERPM limits you can still brake.
Question for you fine fellas: I have a spintend ubox and the remote broke. What remote can I get that’ll pair with the integrated receiver that came with the ESC? Besides the $60 one on the spintend site.
Also a question: Are any of you using their batteries for charging of other devices on the go (like a powerbank)? As I think about removable battery packs in my project I also thought about other use cases of the removable batteries. First thing would be to use them to charge a phone or even better: a laptop.
I already searched a bit for DC to usb-c circuits but most of them only have usb type A (5V 2A) and some usb-c ones that support Power delivery (up to lets say 60 watts for laptop charging) are limited to 4 to 6s batteries and often include a bms which I would not need because of the one i put into the pack itself
Anyone got an idea what to search for? Are step-down modules without “PD 2.0” or 3.0 specification working like as a power delivery over usb-c?? I would guess it needs to offer some sort of communication between the charger and the device (about charging voltage and such)
so far I only found things like this: Netzteilmodul 6 - 40V -> 5V / 3A mit 2x USB | Kaufland.de
or this: https://www.gmelectronic.com/module-usb-c-power-supply-zy12pdn#product-detail
but the last one isnt clear about the direction the power goes (i mean there are modules that turn power delivery over the usb-c port into normal DC output for powering other non-usb devices and its unclear if its that or the way/direction I look for)
to be more clear: the ones I mostly find are “trigger modules” for power delivery power sources but I want find a module that goes the other way and steps down from 10S votage about/above 36V to the 20V for the PD (maybe I need two modules? one for the step down one for the PD communication between usbc and charging device?)
I always hate answering a question with “but why” and especially on a DIY forum.
But why do you need to use only the builtin receiver? I am curious.
Oh my goddd haha I didn’t even realize he typoed I would have posted this
1 Like
lol, it cracked me up - I couldn’t resist
2 Likes
Any real difference between 18:44 and 15:36? It’s the same speed ratio so it’s just a matter of is there more stress on the belt from more tension (15:36) or from a higher surface speed (18:44)
18:44 would be my preference, more tooth engagement on the motor pulley and the belt can bend in a larger radius which might lead to a longer belt life. No significant difference though.
2 Likes
Good, I got 15/44T now and the 18T is definitely cheaper than the 36T
1 Like
Possibly lower ground clearance with the 44t, I remember that being an issue when I looked at 62t and 70t sprockets. 70t was too close to the ground for my liking.
1 Like
It’s on 110s with 12mm belts and 184mm hangers (no spacers) so I’m not too worried
Oh also Chubby or Magnum for BN hangers?
None of the higher-powered USB supplies I’ve seen will natively handle more than ~30v input, so I think you’ll need a DC-DC converter to bring the battery voltage down at least that low. Luckily there are some pretty small and power-dense converters available so you won’t be losing all that much space.
The two main types of high output USB power supply that I saw while working on my ebike are the round panel-mount ones for cars/ATVs/motorcycles/etc, and the “PDS100” type little modules available on Aliexpress and the like. Both need a minimum of 12v, and a maximum of ~24-30v, too low to run directly from a 10 or 12s battery.
Yeah, you need two modules, but the one for PD communication also does a fair bit of the step-up/down, because PD is a multi-voltage protocol that covers the whole range between 3.3 and 21V in 20mv steps (for PPS mode in PD3.0), and up to 48V for the upcoming 240-watt PD standard that was announced a while back. You can’t just feed 20v into a PD transceiver and have it poop out the other side, the protocol just doesn’t work like that.
1 Like
I don’t need to only use the built-in receiver. Just thought I, if i can find a remote that’ll pair with it, might as well utilize it.
1 Like
Thanks a lot! With one of these
I imagine I can just hook up a step down module for 48V to ~25V to it and it should work?
I would also guess the efficiency for the whole process differs strong with larger voltage gaps?
Some charts I found show a weird efficiency graph being at best 90% (shouldnt these come with heat sinks when they burn at least 10w while running at 100w output power?
Correct.
Yes, and also the efficiency depends strongly on the exact dc-dc converter used. Some can be better than 97% efficient under certain conditions.
90% efficiency is still very good considering the wide possible voltage range. Yes, for high power operation they should at least have a chunk of aluminum for thermal mass.
1 Like
I am using the calculator from b264 and I am unshure about the average powerconsumption. I cannot find any information about that number for these 6inch hub motors exept for one post where someone answered that he thought his 6 inch motors were bad with 25wh/km
(do i need the working system for that and run some logs or something? and need to setup the wheel diameter i guess for speed/range)
also the calculator is meant for each drive? I mean should I handle a “dual system” (motor, esc, battery each) as each a system or should I calculate that differently?