That’s the maximum theoretical output current of that battery config, but in reality neither you or the fuse will ever see that. Plus the fact that most LiPo battery manufactures fudge the “C” rating to a pretty high degree, I personally wouldn’t run them much past half that, both for better capacity, and less chance of damaging/immolating the pack.
(Plus, most folks don’t fuse the main discharge anyway - If it pops, you have no brakes.)
a quarter… tops (for me)
As both already said, eskating EU is truly terrible service, and often weirdly inflated prices. Not everything is bad, but the stuff with his brand on it is either medium-crappy ABS enclosures or very questionable electronics and wheels. On top of the markup he sometimes ships stuff out so slowly it would have been faster to buy from china
Also +1 again on the current comments; you’re not going to be able to use anywhere near 120A from the battery even if it could supply it (it can’t, C numbers are wildly inflated). Check some metr logs in build threads if you want to see what battery current really gets used, this monster build of the year finalist didn’t even make it past 65A from the battery
Exactly. Many kilometers after, riding on the mountains for the past few days. My max battery current ever was 79A, and that was for a fraction of a second.
Usually it looks like this
What I have learned from this build? Temperature limits are much bigger headache than Amps limits.
@glyphiks Flipping the mount was a good call! I used some longer motor mount screws, and the 6380s spacing is perfect.
I have a motor which is rated at max 80A and a mini vesc rated at max 50A. Will this cause issues, i.e. will the motor ask for 80 , get less and then strain it because it gets too little current? I am assuming the max the system will be able to ask the battery for is 50A, right?
No
You control this when you set up up you board. Max battery amps and max motor amps.
Nope. The ESC is the only part of the system with any intelligence or control. The battery is just a dumb power source, and the motors are just dumb hunks of iron, copper and neodymium. You can set whatever current limits are needed in the ESC.
Also, motor current very explicitly is NOT battery current. You can draw 10A from your battery while having 100A flowing through the motors under some conditions.
It’s a VESC so you set the parameters.
You meant the screws to bolt the mount to the clamp right? You shouldn’t need longer motor screws…
No, because the ESC rating is “battery current” amperes and the motor rating is “motor current” amperes.
Also the ESCs are often overrated and the motor you can often exceed the current rating as long as it’s not continuous. Don’t be surprised if 25A / 110A is what works well.
I used longer motor screws because the dickyho plates have a cutout for the screw heads on one side but not the other.
I also used longer screws on the clamp/plate mounting.
What Trampa dampa hardness does equal the Trampa barrels?
My barrels have become unstable or rather have turned into a dkp feeling. Its steers as it should and at a certain point it gives in and steers a lot which is mildly sketchy.
So long as they aren’t so long as to be shorting agai s the windings, should be sweet
Hard to tell… The barrels and the spring/dampa setup are so different.
I’m a 100kg rider if that matters.
I want to switch to springs but get a similar or slighlty softer hardness than the barrels to turn sharper.
Then I would recommend to get a few different shore grades and try what works best for you.
Hey Im new here and I want to make a… kind of weird built as a prototype for a project in my university
Should I just make a new topic or post it like a whole thing into this noob thread?
Hey Diverse and welcome to the forum.
If you want to create a topic to show us your progress and create a build log, then feel free to start a topic in the DIY builds category. If you want to ask a bunch of random questions first you might want to start here in the questions thread.
Alright then 
Here some of my random current questions and the basic idea:
Im planning to build (/design?) some sort of “electric inline-skate” thing as a project for my university.
I would love to make the result or compromise as a “working prototype” and I got me some old Cross skates (skikes v07) as a base for the built as they have a lower center of gravity, larger wheels and come with air-filled tires (which might be more usable at higher-than-rollerblade speeds).
The skates would be two identical drive systems with each a motor, esc, receiver and batterypacks(cells/bms). Im still not shure how I will control them both, if I opt for handheld remotes in each hand for each skate or if I figure out a way to control them both with one remote… It might be difficult to steer with the latter 
I sadly have only about 70 days left to get it done completely and am currently in the process of finding the right parts and ordering them soon so the delivery times of maybe 30 days are within this period 
So far I got this list:
I plan on using 165mm hub motors as they seem to be quite powerful and slim (they could maybe even fit into the skikes without big modifications)
Someone recommended me to use 2 of these sv6 vesc6 (which are quite expensive but I guess I need to increase my budget a bit…)
As a remote I heard that this miniremote could be able to be bound to two receivers but I will get me two sets of them and figure stuff out (to maybe change it to one remote) when I get everything working with two of these in parallel (just testing the concept with each skate on one remote each)
2 of these BMS as they come with the important features and also a temp probe
I plan to make the battery packs removable as in power tools to reduce the weight on the skates/feet. This way it would be possible to take more battery packs in a backpack to get more range. The packs are planned to be 10s1p and these 21700 cells got recommendet to me:
That seller even offers to solder little tabs onto the cells for 0,55€ (each…) and I guess that is the best I can do as I dont know if they have a spotwelder for cells in my university and they didnt answer my mails about the workshops they have yet 
For the systems to turn on/off I heard people use antispark switches or bridges but I thought if it wouldnt be enough to simply unplug the battery to turn it on/off? (please tell me if Im overlooking something as I dont have much experience in e-skateboards yet 
just a tiny bit of quadcopterstuffs) Otherwise I would just make a xt90 plug thing and a neat housing for that
A goal would be to go slightly above bike-speed and I would try to get regen braking to work for these cells/motor/esc. For that I heard to just… use the bms for chaging only and simply solder the esc input directly to the cell-in/output so it doesnt destroy the bms if it isnt suited for that amount of current?
Anyway I just want to make this kind of stupid build and wanna see how it performs and feels ^^
Anyone who wants to give me Advice is welcome!
If someone has better solutions to the things I plan do some way please let me know!
