I don’t know actual weight but when I felt them in person they were very light
Iighter than any Esk8 wheel I’ve used
Did you do a BLDC hand test on the motors?
If you swap the motors, does it swap which side acts funny?
Have you contacted Trampa?
In hands they spun freely, when shorting phase wires there was a smooth resistance. So maybe it is the VESC… it just wouldn’t make sense considering how the motor wires warmed up
Motor also freely spins as currently mounted though
need a low kv powerful motor (dont mind if its reasonably large) 150-200kv
I have an AT board that I use a GT2b remote with. I am working on another esk8 build, and would like to use the other GT2b that I have laying around for the board.
Part of the reason i’m building the new one is so that my girlfriend and I can ride together. If we are both using the gt2b remotes, will there be a conflicting signal that might cause cutouts?
Would anybody recommend against storing your LiPo’s on their long flat side? (thinking about weight distribution on cells)
I could be wrong, but I think squeezing them is better than not squeezing them, as long as it’s even and nothing will poke holes or dents in them.
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Sorry if I may be in the wrong thread but where in Germany / Europe can I order steel motor pulleys?
I want to replace my worn 16T alu ones.
Thanks.
Thread is fine.
You have to select “no keyway” otherwise it’ll say it is out of stock.
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They will customize the bore size, setscrews, keyways, etc for you as well.
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idk where to put this, so here it is
How to calculate the maximum continuous current output (A) for your battery
Max continous Amp draw (A)= Battery capacity (Ah) x Discharge rate (C)
For a example, a 5100mAh 3 cell Lipo battery with a 10C rating. Convert 5100mAh to 5.1Ah, multiply that number by 10 (C), to get a total continuous output of (5.1 x 10) = 51A
search tag:
lipo c rating
c rating to amps
c rating conversion
c rating to a rating
lipo amps calc
In calculations, C is “per hour” much the same way Hz is “per second”.
Also, it seems known that some lipo sellers exaggerate their cells’ C ratings
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OK, noob question: How to open hobbywing motor?
Cause after the first 1100Km/700miles hub motors started making noise like grinding sand.
Open cover find this 
Immediately bought electric motor cleaner and rubber sealed 6905 bearings but can’t opening the motor.
Best tutorial is this:
but rotor covers are different and part highlighted in green in the pic is VEEEEERY well stuck… hammering, pulling, twisting by hand… nothing works. Maybe has to be unscrewed or there’s some invincible loctite in there… dunno 
quite difficult to replace rusty bearings… hehe
Can anyone experienced help a noob pull the rotor cover out 
please?
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The two holes in the top of the motor in the first pic suggest to me that the cover is screwed on, and you’re supposed to use a pin spanner to remove it.
One of these bois:
Now I have no way of knowing if that is actually the case, or if that step would get you any closer to having the motor apart.
My other suggestion would be to get a solid grip on the outside of the motor can, and apply some serious force to the middle top (the ring just inside the inner bearing race), maybe with an arbor press or a vise. I think holding onto the damn thing without damaging it is going to be your biggest challenge.
As long as you don’t actually damage the metal parts, you don’t have to worry about the bearings at all since you’re replacing them. That means it’s time for a bigger hammer.
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Yup, looks sorta like a retention ring needing a spanner tool.
Long ago when I didn’t have a spanner, I used two screwdriver bits from an ifixit kit & a pair of channel locks to grab them once inserted. Worked very well.
Basically find two things to shove in those holes, get needle nose pliers, a vice, channel locks or whatever, apply a lot of downward force so your thingies don’t slip out, then twist to unscrew.
Given the fact it’s a motor and not something like a flashlight (that’s what mine was) it’s probably going to take a bit of force to unscrew.
Could be completely wrong, but def make sense.
- alternatively
Can you disassemble the bearing while it’s still in there? Taking out the balls and inner race. Then clean the inside of the outer race well, & assemble balls + inner race of a new bearing. Not the best solution, but would probably work if it is indeed the bearing causing your issues.
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Got some Hummie Centrax wheel. Freaking glorious but no core.
How do I get pulleys on them?
- Does JB weld bond to urethane?
- Can I take a blowtorch to my kegel pulleys and stick the pins into the wheel?
- Does someone have a drill press jig for drilling out kegel mounting pattern?
Just double checking that 4mm bullets are big enough for motor connections. Stormcore 60 to 6384. Used to run the 5.5mm that came with TB motors, but my new enclosure is smaller and they don’t fit
Anyone got a trick to removing lucid grip without messing up what’s under it? I kinda wanna keep this landyachtz picture on it but the grip suuuuucks
Careful sanding