Hyperion. Post a pic of the engraving on the motor can lol
Like near 100% that’s a Hyperion Maytech
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There is no engraving on the can, there are some machine marks (the fine ribs you can see in the picture above that’s it.
There is a shiny clear coat of epoxy over the windings and a small green pcb that you can see on the other end.
*edit, Yes they could be a small batch order from Maytech. But it so hard to work out with stuff from China as they all copy each other.
“Dark Matter Motor” sold by “scepterr” or sceppy as I used to call him.
Specifications
- 6374 190kv 3200W Semi-Sealed (True 74mm Length)
- 12AWG High Strand Count Tinned Copper Flexible Silicone Phase Leads
- 5.5mm Gold Plated Bullet Connectors
- Focbox, VESC 4 Hall Sensor Connector (NO ADAPTER NEEDED)
- 8mm Bore, Keyway, 2x Circlip Positions
- N42SH Curved Magnets
- Japan NSK Ball Bearings
- Weight: 906 grams
Technically you beat me, although I had already found the original sales thread and was writing the response.
I knew I just needed a old head rather than all these newbros about now to point me in the right direction.
Thanks b264
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u selling them?
Yeah, that’s the plan.
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Hey there,
My flipsky vx1 has problems with connecting since I bought it… Pairing gives most of the time troubles and also it disconnects after a while. I did not use my board yet, but I’m not gonna try it out this way, because it wouldn’t be safe.
Can any one help me out?
open it up, take pic of both side of the pcb
there was batch which a chip was missing and it just never stays connected
edit: there is a screw under the sticker, just incase if u r wondering why it won’t come apart
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are there any tricks to open it up because it stays stucks 
(and i took out the 2 screws)
should be
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thx 
I compared it to mine and it seemed like every part i have, is soldered on yours as well.
There were 2 differences but they might as well just be improved designs as mine is quite old already. So I can’t comment on that.
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it does seem like the the bottom part has a chip missing compare to what Marcel posted.
Send this pic to flipsky and ask them to replace it, they should do it since it a defective product
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Thx both!! You’re right about the missing part I think. I will email flipsky!
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Best of luck, if they won’t replace it, I have a spare pcb I can send u for shipping price
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Wow thanks thats kind!
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Does anyone know the per wheel weight of the stooge race slicks? Thanks in advance.
I have two 80100s detecting individually on 75/200 VESCs all brand new…
Motor 1) Detects perfectly, has ~20mOhm resistance detected and marks it as ~60A Motor (Odd, but it detected so ill deal with the low amperage later because I was expecting 100+)
Motor 2) At first refused to detect giving me “could not detect sensor issues”(regardless of having them plugged in or not). VESC had 3 green lights, and one blue, and one red blinking one, where as the okay VESC had 3 green and one blue. Reflashed firmware, no more blinking light, and it started detection…
Then it Made horrible screeching noises in multiple frequencies as it spun up, detected it as 0.6mOhm, and 400A, and the wires/vesc were warm (not hot or concerning, but noticeable that they were really pumping amps.
Additional info,
-The motor phase wires should be soldered hot no issues, I used 2x300 watt guns with a friend and completely soldered them
-No faults detected
-No, the screeching noise is not the same as the detection screech. I can record if needed but really dont want to for the safety of the hardware. It is horrendously loud, and continues doing so when on the motor inversion page that just spins the motor slowly. Seriously sounds bad. Also heats up non-concerningly, but definitely running 100+A to get that warm in 30 seconds…
What I am curious of
-Is that the sign of a shorted motor?
-Why did one motor detect at 60A even though its an 80100 and others have clocked them at 100+A? I am certain the solder joints are hot as could be, and create a perfect silver soaked copper sponge.
-What can I do to troubleshoot this?