This is great. I’m happy that works for you. We definitely need multiple opinions and solutions presented.
This is unrealistic though for a lot of riders, and pretty silly IMHO. A lot of things aren’t under the rider’s control.
When someone reading destroys their $3k board because someone said water resistance isn’t important, they will likely be glad multiple different strategies, opinions, and situations exist. Umbrella speak and broad category generalization is getting old.
Not for me. Hence my view on the matter.
this is actually why I like panel connectors that adapt internally. keep the plugs on the enclosure, all parts inside and outside be separately modular. it’s a pain to keep track of bullet order and keep things running through glands or holes when you want to mess with your drivetrain or drop in a new VESC or something. modular is a goal.
is their a good bearing removal tool for trampa wheels? or a good method. to put the wheels on you have to have a bearing out so you can put on the little rubber ring first. the rubber ring wont go the axle if you dont put it on the axle first with one bearing out. this could be an issue if you need to change a belt or innertube on the go. the bearings seem to stick in their real good. any ideas?
Has anyone ran FOC on Flipsky 4.12 vescs with 10s? Or should I steer clear of that
Also interested in this. I feel like I read somewhere that foc blowing vescs is a function of the motor kv and voltage.
Can anyone explain or point to a post that explains why 4.12 + foc will blow stuff up
I’ve ran FOC on a tenka which is 4.12 with few issues, besides the tenka blowing up from BEMF
Not one shorter than an allen key. Decided to just stick to deflating the tire, I shouldn’t need to tension it often at all so it’s not a huge deal to pump it back up afterwards.
The Green One has been running FOC HFI on FSESC 4.20 for years. They’re not 4.12. I rode it today; it still runs great.
I think the most important thing is to keep battery current low, 25A or less per motor, and you will probably be fine.
A Tenka is not a 4.12
It’s not VESC6, what is it?
a unique product that isn’t v4 nor v6
vesc 5?
I trust forecasts about as much as I trust cars to not try to kill me. I’ve lost a board to rain that started at 5pm when the forecast that morning said 9 pm. I stayed at work an extra 4 hours to try to wait it out, but even then it was still kind of raining and the road was very wet. It was a cheapo single hub shortboard off amazon, but even that is pretty unfortunate.
When all else fails, John has got you covered.
You guys do know that if its wet or raining you can just not skate right?
For Some of us, an esk8 is our only vehicle.
I own a car, but I try not to use it unless I have to. I live in Florida so if I drove every time it might rain I’d be driving every day for 9 months of the year at least.
Fair. It may be worthwhile investing in a mode of transport that is not so prone to inclement weather… 
just a thought.
I also don’t take my board out in rainy weather but leaves and mud can be a bitch and catch you out. I’ve also been caught out on a sunny day when someone was washing their car and it was running of all the way across the road and I had no way of avoiding, just had to brake slowly and listen to the water splashing up onto my enclosure. That’s why i will always opt to use silicon or waterproof connections even if I do not take my board out in crap weather
Each to their own i guess. I really don’t take water protection into consideration at all. I’m more concerned about dust.
If my builds are dust proof, i’m happy. I ride through small puddles or water on the road all the time, but if it’s something that I fear is a little too wet to ride through, i don’t ride through it
I just think skating in the wet is dumb for so many reasons. But that’s just like, my opinion man.