Hence why I’m asking about goop, Canadian Tire has many bondage goops available
Well I think anything you use will eventually come loose except epoxy.
Whether liquid epoxy or a kind of putty like milliput, either way, some sort of two part epoxy is what you want, and make sure it grabs the threads nice and well and the threads don’t have oil or grease on them.
Is there anything I can do to help the epoxy grab? I want to be able to have as many insertions and pulls without the socket coming loose as possible. Maybe like soldering some “hooks” onto the casing?
Also I have some dollar store 2-part epoxy immediately handy, is that too crappy?
I’m gonna have to disagree with Brian on this one. I do not partake in his permanent build ideology. What if it breaks, or you want to use that for another build? It’ll still be epoxied in, and that will be a bit of a pain. Hot glue the living shit out of it.
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I agree that I like everything to be modular, but having a charge port permanently paired to an enclosure (it unplugs internally with an XT60) isn’t so bad for me.
Best?
The best thing you can do to make it grab is to make sure the threads and the fiberglass enclosure are clean and even sand them lightly with a fine grit if needed.
And if you add milled glass fiber to your liquid epoxy mix, it will make it very strong, but will make the surface very bumpy and pointy.
West System 650 epoxy plus milled glass fiber, and do it in multiple thinner coats with each coat being applied 5 hours after the last, would give the absolute best results.
If you wait for a full cure then the blush on the epoxy can make a layer interface weakness. Applying the next layer before the layer under it is fully cured, allows the chemical bonds to cross the layer boundry well and act as a single cohesive piece. Read about epoxy blush because WS650 does that a lot but it’s good to use if you know about it.
Also put a fuse in there when you do all that, bury it in the epoxy with wires soldered to it, one of which goes to the charge port…
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All I have are glass fuses, might have to go get a plastic one. 20A okay? The BMS cuts off at 30A but it’s sticker says it’s a 20A BMS.
Glass is fine, even better to bury it then
Not sure if the rattling will pop the fuse though. But if it pops, just add a new one
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I recently had to remove a charge port that was epoxied into an enclosure, and I don’t ever want to deal with removing epoxy from threading that small again.
Hold on I have to disagree with Brian even harder on that. How are you going to change that fuse?!
Changing a fuse? It should never blow and if it does, just add another one.
In parallel I assume?
facepalm if it should never blow you wouldn’t install it.
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No; just unhook the blown one.
Also, don’t add milled glass to strengthen epoxy on parts that might be temporary. You’re off your game tonight, bu rai un.
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Is jbweld good for this?
Is it the 2 part syringe? Make sure you cap it properly, or next time you go to use it, whole thing will be fucked. Learned that the hard way.
Vinegar rags a lot less work.
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No, JB Weld is too hard & brittle for this, I would use WS650 or some generic hardware store epoxy, preferably without the word “quick” or “5 minute” on the packaging
Darn the stuff I got rn is the 5 minute kind. I’ll be heading to Cambodian Tire tomorrow for some of these finishing touch parts.
Gonna make this an “always on” board for the time being, gotta change the nozzle on my printer and set it up again so I can print loopkey parts.