Nothing inherent in the active balancing tech makes them more reliable or prevents them from draining a pack to zero volts. It’s all up to the individual balancer’s design and construction.
Both passive (resistor-based) and active balancers (capacitor or inductor-based) can be accurate and reliable or complete piles of junk. But with the resistor-based ones often being sold so cheaply (carefully chosen word there) though the odds of them being less reliable are greater IMO.
If the budget is there your recommendation to buy an active model is a good one if the large balancing current is not an issue.
Anyone know how to turn on this random esc from the lot skyarts bought?
Tomorrow the motor connectors are coming off it so speak now.
The 4 pin power button it sort of came with, and a different one I had didn’t turn it on. The right most pin has 37v on it. My guess is it’s broken or the shit remote universal I bought is not compatible. It doesn’t exactly matter since I’ve got 5 single unused vescs at the moment, but I figured I’d try a shit esc to see what I’m missing.
I never used exactly this voltage checker.
I had a different one I once tried to balance discharge to storage voltage with and it got so hot that the plastic case started melting
If you have legit cells and a proper build pack, there shouldn’t be much balancing be needed for quite some charge cycles.
So might work with the voltage checker you plan to buy.
Most importantly thing if you want to go this route, always have an eye on the individual cell voltages and be nearby while charging to switch off the charge manually if needed.
It’s my opinion that if this level of babysitting is required, then the vehicle or battery is designed wrong. At least we know which direction to go to improve our vehicles.
legal disclaimer: obviously you should always take all safety precautions possible, even absurd ones
