Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

i agree, i took the time to read through this entire thread once, and i think everyone should do the same.

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You read over 20k posts in a single sitting? How?

i didnt say it was in one sitting lol.

The startup sounds like that because of VSS or Vedder Sensorless Startup which works on the same principle of HFI but in most cases requires no tuning, although it does need a temp sensor to operate close to flawlessly so it can make adjustments based on temperature because the resistance changes with temperature. It is in the beta 5.3 firmware which should hopefully be released as a full release soon. I have been using it and had no issues and run VSS without the temp sensor and although it does have a slightly harder time starting up it is miles ahead of regular sensorless or trying to tune HFI on your own. I will take your advice into consideration though with the tuning of switching frequency and let you know how it goes. I might eventually get some real epoxy and lather the windings generously instead of using nail polish lol. The magnets are in tact and are completely fine along with the pulley although I do have some issue tightening it down fully as it tends to loosen up easily. Will get some loctite for that eventually as well.

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Also forgot to mention. Using a Spintend UBOX V2. So it can handle practically anything I throw at it :)).

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Someone else had a similar issue with the Ubox. Spintend sets switching frequency really high.

That does sound weird but I would do nothing until I try the drivetrain with a load on it before I thought twice about the noise.

Unloaded a lot of times they can act totally different.

Loaded means moving a human around.

Oh yeah don’t worry I have tested it with a load (me - 140lbs if thats any useful info) up to ≈ 30mph and it still does make that noise. @jaykup I’m currently running the default for beta 5.3 which is 30khz, going down to 25khz (default for most other hardware) gives the motors a hard time starting up in VSS but I have not yet played around with it yet more finely. I might end up just running it and check on the motors on a weekly basis for signs of damage to the windings but I’m still not sure.

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I suspect it’s a resonance mode of the motor cans. They’re only supported on one end in most motors, so they can act like tuning forks and resonate at certain speeds. You could try adding some mass to the cans to see if that shifts the resonant frequency, and thus the speed at which the resonance picks up. Maybe something vibration-absorbing like foam if it really bothers you. I don’t think you’ll get it to totally go away though, it’s just how our motors sound at high speed.

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Does anyone know if an e-bike would work if one doesn’t connect the ‘S’ (sensor?) and temperature poles? Also would it charge?

This is from a Panasonic battery, which is fine, but there is no voltage on the + coming out of the BMS/PCB. I was wondering if a generic one would work.

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endless sphere has all manner of ebike experts if nobody here knows, but someone might

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i have the metr pro can version, it came with the external antenna, can i remove it and just use internal antenna ?

You should be able to, yes. Obviously do some testing before you pot it into your enclosure or whatever, just in case it kills the range too much.

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I believe there is a jumper you have to solder if you switch antenna types.

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I see a small component bridging two of the three pads there. Probably either a capacitor or a low-value resistor as a jumper. Shouldn’t be too hard to move if you have a steady hand and a decent iron.

Not without moving a microscopic SMT capacitor over

Got to move that piece over

Doesn’t matter which way it’s flipped polarity-wise but it needs to connect the PCB trace antenna instead of the socket.

It’s a high-skill solder job. Probably need tweezers, a hot air machine, and a magnifier.

Ah, nice, that should be a prob, thanks for the info

I’ve used the UART version w/o soldering that and no antenna and it worked fine up to like 25’

Hard to see but I measured it and I have conductivity from the traces to the resistor, by no means I can see what I’m doing though


Works

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That’s fantastic, I’d put a dab of conformal coating or silicone or hot glue or epoxy or anything on there to make sure it stays put

Nail polish if needed, preferably acrylic

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