Leave everything as-is. Simply extend the B- and B+ to the outside of the battery and connect those to the ESC.
That’s what I would do, anyway.
So basically what I have shown with the “new p-/p+”? They are shown soldered to the b-/b+ pads
Yes, that’s what I would try
1 Like
Thanks for the input 
So the existing discharge wires could be removed since they would no longer be needed right?
(a) and (c.) on my first image
I’m having an issue where my board is cogging violently when started up under load. I just set up HFI and maybe I did it wrong(?) although I followed the tutorial and things seemed to work fine. There is mild cogging without me on the board and violent cogging with me.
I’m using 2 torqueboards ESCs (based on the VESC 4.12) and 2 dickyho 6374 motors without sensors attached and running at 12s.
My HFI starting voltage is 13, running voltage is 4, and max voltage is 12
Video: https://youtu.be/d9xonKGaCEA
Does anyone know whats up?
either that was set-up completely wrong,
or like Jeff said… HFI works on some motors and not on others…
I could get one motor running really well and the other cogged like a sumbitch… I went back to sensors
3 Likes
HFI seems to be kind of fussy.
5 Likes
Yeah the HFI needs to be re-tuned. First try not pulling the trigger as far under load and you start real gradually, does the horrible cogging not go away, but get reduced? Try increasing the HFI Max Voltage and also do the entire HFI setup again
Some motors just suck. I was not able to get HFI working on Racerstar 5065 140Kv motors no matter what. On TB6380 170Kv it works like magical fairy dust in my experience. Setting it up seems to be a tad gambling. I have not fully mastered that yet…
2 Likes
Can you use a 12s charger for a 16s battery? … Or do I need to buy a new one?
no, yes
4 Likes
Damn… Where do most get new Chargers? Ali I assume
I’m sure you can get one from an ebike supplier, but they speak in code and I don’t have a translator.
I speak “Volts” and “science” and they use funny abbreviations like “36V” when talking about a 42V charger.
So that’s why I don’t deal with those people.
But they probably have one, you’d have to check it with a multimeter to MAKE F***ING SURE it was 67.2V before you used it.
4 Likes
damn… I thought for a second that a 12s charger on 16s would make a good bring it up to storage charger, but it’s too weak sauce even for that!
1 Like
100 is really low. The most expensive stuff is your remote and goggles xd thats like 50€+
I made a partlist for a cheap fpv drone but i chose to build an esk8
1 Like
I tried making one from that 1 yt channel and it was like 150 without remote znd goggles
1 Like
Yeah you’re right… 150$ is like the minimum if you get somewhat decent parts … Goggles and remote for 50$???
People spend 200$ minimum there.
A 150$ goggle is considered ultra budget. 
I’m confused
Yeah for cheap goggles
others can easily go up to 200€
1 Like
hey grease-ballz take your idle-FPV posts to a more appropriate thread!
1 Like
So I replaced a flipsky dual ESC with two Maytech v6 ESCs, and when I plug in one of my motor’s hall sensor cable all the lights go off on the ESC. I checked the pins with my multimeter, and there seems to be a near-short (21 ohms) between the black wire and the white wire (ground and H3/CS respectively). I think that’s an indication that I need to buy a new motor, right?
1 Like
White wire is the temperature sensor. It should have a resistance value that drops with higher temperature.
As for h1/2/3, you can spin the motor and the “shorts” should alternate between on/off. That’s what hall sensors do. Make sure you wired it properly
2 Likes