I’ve seen it… Jed/Jeff/Gamergirl/Jason does some first rate quality, “aerospace-like work”
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Hey I can solder xt90/60s nicely 
These damn things are puny against 12awg
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Plug two together while you solder
Use helping hands
Use a high quality iron
Turn up the heat to 800F (425C)
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Can someone tell me if it’s a good idea to use the new Flipsky 6374 140kv motors with 85mm street wheels, around 18T/36T pulleys, and 12s?
I’m unsure if the kv of these is a bit too low, but the power for the price is good (on sale for a few more hours 
) and the design seems to be slightly better than their other motors. I’m planning on using 160mm pneumatic wheels in the future and it would be nice if I could use the same motors.
All help is greatly appreciated!
Yes, those numbers work together well.
If you choose to buy Flipsky, you must understand that it’s very likely you will need to buy it twice, and that there is no customer service.
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I personally would use higher Kv motors because you can get the most benefit from sensorless setups and if you decide to use sensors (I wouldn’t) then you will be relying on them less.
Of course changing the Kv changes the other numbers too.
I would consider changing to a 40T+ wheel pulley — but I don’t think that would work well with 85mm wheels, maybe not enough clearance. So if you stick with 85mm that may not be possible.
If you plan on using those motors to their full potential you won’t be able to hold on to the board at full throttle.
Definetly set up ramp up/down times a bit higher and gradually set the motor amps higher as you get used to.
Also fuck flipsky. My 6354 are rattling from the first week and i am still negociating with one of their reps to send me over some replacement shafts and spare brass washers. That’s since like, the start of may
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Anybody here building FPV racing drones?
Not 500€ ones…
More budget ones with parts from banggood. Total budget for the drone alone being around 100€
Feel free to pm me!
Would be nice to get some recommendations and feedback to what I’ve picked so far 
Complete Noob here
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Thanks for the replies, I’ll take them into consideration.
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how do i rip the hobbywing receiver out of the esc that came with my apsuboard and use it with, say, a makerx esc or some other esc that needs a separate rx? the apsu was my first board so i assumed it was typical to have a decent linear throttle and brake curve with instant response (like, oh idk, EVERY radio controlled thing ive ever owned). but i recently got a lingyi esc from mboards and its pretty much not rideable. you hit the throttle and it MIGHT go now, it might go a half a second from now. WHO KNOWS!? anyway, i REALLY dont feel like dropping another hundred or more dollars for an esc/controller combo only to find out its also unresponsive/unpredictable/non-linear waste of money.
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You need a VESC and a Mini Remote.
The receiver isn’t the part causing that behaviour, it’s the firmware.
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most hobbywing esc is potted, its nearly impossible to remove. even if succesful, the receiver is also part of the pcb
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You don’t.
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This is your answer. Only a vesc will give you full power over the control aspects of your board.
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For my TB motor mounts, do I need to put loctite blue on the set screws or can I just tighten them down as much as possible?
You should loctite them after you’ve completed a successful shakedown run.
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Tighten them without Loctite.
Ride the board for a hundred meters.
Inspect and adjust everything.
Ride the board for a hundred meters.
Inspect and adjust everything.
When you are happy with it all, apply Loctite 290 or 242 and reassemble everything. Loctite 290 can be used without disassembly a lot of time. 242 always requires disassembly.
Don’t touch the thing for 30 hours while the Loctite cures. You’ll be sorry if you do.
“a hundred meters” does not mean “joyride for an hour because it’s so much fun” — that will only lead to many problems 
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BMS bypass question
I picked up a Metroboard battery with the 30a discharge bms and I cracked it open to rewire it for charge only, but it’s a bit different than the usual bypass diagrams I’ve seen around here
It has a B+ and P+ pad so I’m a bit confused what exactly needs to get disconnected in order to still function for balancing yet keep it’s stingy hands off those discharge amps. I’m assuming the B+ is needed to complete the balance circuit? So would I remove P- and P+ and relocate them as shown below?
