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Which one? I’m only aware of a 10S-only one by Maytech.
Are there other ones commercially available?
Take apart used bearings and use the inner race as 7mm spacers.
Combined with 1mm speedrings and 10.2mm bearing spacers, this should be able to make whatever you need.
Spintend makes a 10s-20s one.
I have one, but haven’t installed it yet.
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By the looks of it it should be pretty straightforward if you have a high enough power iron that isn’t gonna half desolder stuff and take so long that you cook something. I lifted this pic of the PCB from another thread and it seems like there’s nice big pads on their own fingers for the phase connections
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yes you should. Then you can also check on the solder joints that came from the factory. Just make sure to put the wires through the silicone cover first, then solder them on.
easier than connecting 2 wires to each other.
as @mr.shiteside said, the pads are easy to work with (i’ve done it myself)
this is how the joints looked on my unity from the factory
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Ew
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I probably would’ve fucked that up.
This is one via bioboards so I’m sure the soldering is pretty good.
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I think they all originate in the same place. Do Bioboards or BKB or any other resellers do QC? I know BKB in particular do after-sales support, but it’d be interesting to see if they inspect each unit
Also saaaaame
Me too, that’s why i have cut through the segments to make 3 flaps. Now i can take it off whenever i want and it still holds.
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Pretty sure they do but bioboards waa replacing the 14 awg phase wires the Unity used to have w 12 awg so they would’ve re-soldered the trace then and likely done a much better job. That’s the idea anyway. Here’s ta’ hoping 
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There are unities in production at the moment sold by the scumbag himself that use 12 (I bought one from him earlier this year before I knew better) and I thiiiink that’s been the case for a while, or at least I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 14AWG one that wasn’t an original Focbox 1.6/1.7
I bought this unity second hand many, many moons ago. I have no idea how old it is. Old to be sure. I do have the original bill of sale. @mackann can confirm they used to sell these ‘modded’ Unities once upon a time. I’ll have to see if I can dig it out for shits and gigs.
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That should be fine, as long as you put some other spacer between them inside the wheel to replace them - You want to limit the amount of preload on the bearings.
I would recommend one speed ring against each bearing face, just to keep anything from rubbing on the shield or outer race, but after that you can use whatever fits over the axle.
The inner race on the Zealous bearings have not only a half spacer on one side, but they also have an extra 1mm on the opposite side, like built-in speedrings.
I don’t think simply flipping them and using a standard width 10.2mm bearing spacer would work.
A custom spacer that’s 4.1mm or 8.2mm would probably work though.
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How much!?
Looking at the diagram, this seems to be only the controller module that interfaces between the system and the rheostatic brake, rather than the rheostatic brake itself. Or does it come with the brake resistor pack as well?
It is just the controller. You need to add a resistor or other resistive load.
That’s already around 500W of resistor heat to manage for a 12S setup so while it’s only 10A of regen current shunting it’s already enough to make mounting the resistor(s) a bit challenging if there is enough braking to get them hot.
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Thanks for the clarifications!
It seems like a lot of extra bulk and complexity just to offset 10A during braking.
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… unless you live at the top of a hill.
Then, it’s practically required.
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