Its okay if we software limit the erpm on 4.x hardware right? IIRC that number is 60k>. I think I set my Xenith to 55k or 50k just to be safe.
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190Kv. You will have less heat in the motor and less zero-rpm cogging / sensor issues.
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Don’t adjust those “maximum erpm” numbers because it disables your brakes above that. That’s really more for airplane / propeller use. (“cut my throttle and brakes above speed X”) You should adjust the duty cycles instead.
Well, frying the ESC would also disable brakes, so he should do both 
No, you should not lower the maximum erpm number from the default for esk8 use. Read the duty cycle stuff I linked, and you can set a limit that doesn’t cut your brakes off.
If you are making an aircraft, the maximum erpm would be a lot more useful.
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I guess you’re right that limiting max duty cycle would render the ERPM limit useless, but I don’t see the harm in setting that to be at the hardware limits anyway.
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Is there a way to set a minimum start speed in the vesc tool? So you have to push first and only then the throttle works?
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How do I attach Hobbywing motors to a vesc they have this weird 9pin connector
Hello everyone, I’m alive. So. Few questions to ask. Finally got my carbon fiber situated, based on the size of the deck. 11 (width) 44 (length) is two cups of epoxy and one cup hardener good enough for the two layers? Another one is, what’s more safer. I’m using unidirectional so is the sand / cutting easier then traditional carbon fiber? And I won’t have to worry about the dust as people have said in some threads, is wet sanding necessary?
always worry about the dust
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What’s the best way to minimize it
Do as little cutting and sanding on finished carbon as possible.
Cut using a saw or oscillating tool rather than grinding disc
Can wet the area to keep dust down (careful water & power no good together also)
Wear FULL ppe and don’t do this in your bedroom 
Probably lots of other clever ideas
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You think I can trim the shape of the board before adding the epoxy (assuming the most dust is after the curing process) or just use a jigsaw all the way afterwards. Could do it outside so using nature as an idea. Direction of wind + cutting + carrying dust away = happy lungs
Respirator = safer for the lungs
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Don’t cut it down beforehand. Cut edges fray unless you masking tape first and the cut on the tape.
You need to cut excess off board in both cases so just do it once it’s cured.
If you’re skinning, and fabric at edges is pulled tight down, you can use a metal file to run over the cured cf on edges of the deck, like you do with grip tape until you file through the cf layer. Dusty but easyish. Then rip off the excess and leave the board looking mint 
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Thats true. Might need to upgrade the mask i currently wear for woodworking for the carbon. Probably won’t help much. I don’t have nozzles for the epoxy + hardener so how much you think will be needed? (btw I got the Raka Epoxy) was the next best thing against West Systems. Scored on CF also, didn’t get the Aliexpress one. Works. So cutting with a blade after curing isn’t needed. Just a file and it comes off like paper
Huh?
What are nozzles?
Suggest you read info about the epoxy you are using. It will have correct ratio listed.
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Like really hard, itchy paper… (kinda?)
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Metering pumps. He’s asking how much total epoxy he’ll need, not the ratio (which is 2:1)
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Oh I have those. Haha. Scales work well too for smaller amounts. Volume depends on process and wastage as well as ratio in the part.
a 50:50 fabric to resin ratio can be a good rough guide. Say for a 200gsm fabric, covering day 1/3rd of a sqm (maybe) 66ish grams fabric weight and resin should be the same
Assuming you only coat the deck and a small brush out area around this should be ok in terms of volume to mix. It will allow some spare just in case . No point coating fabric well away from the deck.
Can always mix more resin if you run out (because you apply too heavily).
If vac bagging, I tend to slap it on a bit more because the bleeder stack and vac pressure squeezes out the excess resin pretty well.
Churr 