thats a good idea. there’s an umbrella code that covers all toys, which saves sifting through all the highly technical subsections that categories loads of other parts. I’m sending trucks too, so they could support my case that it is indeed a toy
Hallo,
I’ve got trucks mounted drop through, with backing plates. They creak like bad floorboards when I lean back and forth through center. Haven’t found much mention of this problem on the forums.
The contact is metal on carbon. I’ve tried putting in thin sheets of softer wood in between and changing the bolt tightness, but no dice. Anyone else dealt with this? Maybe I should try a layer of bicycle innertube or something?
Are you sure the creaking is coming from the actual mount, and not the bushings? Usually it’s either the pivot cup or bushings that makes noise, as the mounting connection should be immovable.
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Maybe. The cups are riptide WFB so it should be lubed, and when I soaped up the bushings it got rid of the small, rapid creaks, but the louder infrequent ones are still there.
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Ok, so my 45min-1hr charge time on my lipo packs now makes the 2.5hr wait time on my Wowgo feel like an eternity. Can I just upgrade to a higher ampage charger or will the BMS still limit it to the current 2A?
Can I levarage my balance charger instead? It’s only rated for 6S liion but as I would connect to a BMS is there a workaround to just plug in with no balance lead to provide the right voltage and higher amps?
Cheers
The BMS almost certainly has some kind of charge current limit, but it’s probably at least double the 2A rating. A 4A charger would probably work fine.
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While I agree, I’d be cautious as the charge wires might not be rated for much higher.
But even then I’d try to find out. If the charge wires get so hot you cant touch them, it’s not going to work for long lol. If it was me I’d upgrade the charge wires (charge port wires) as well.
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It’s unlikely that a 6s charger would have components inside that can boost to 12s voltages. If you don’t see the option to do so in your charger’s menu, it doesn’t exist.
Some chargers have a pot inside that limits the output current. I know most under 6A are just 6A chargers turned down with a pot.
Got out today and at some point my throttle got very jerky - would engage and disengage very suddenly for a few seconds and then behave. I assumed it was a traction issue fighting with current control because there were wet leaves and poor surfaces around but then…
Throttle started slowly ramping up and not responding to the remote. No brakes, no idea if it was just going to keep accelerating, VX2 no longer showing battery reading from the board, pointed directly towards a river. Managed to turn onto a quiet pedestrianised road (and away from the river) with grass I could bail onto but at this point it was at 30-35 km/h and I’d have to clear some pavement before reaching the grass. Just before I was about to dive I decided to try powering down the remote, and thank the sweet FSM the board slowed down to a stop.
Sounds like a flaky UART connection, anyone want to make guesses while I’m opening it up?
If you have a multimeter test the cable you’re using. I had this happen to me with other remotes, and to fix it I connected to VESCTool and turned on RT app data, this was showing me the values for center and min/max were off so a quick Calibration and re-pairing worked for me.
How is your remote connected for battery display? Tx/Rx or separate battery wire?
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Might be misunderstanding but because it’s a UART remote I don’t mess with PPM or PWM calibration at all. There is a calibration function on the remote itself, but it’s separate from VESC tool
For battery readings it’s over UART Tx/Rx I think, I’ll double check the pins once I have it open.
Will check the cable though. My money is on vibrations shaking the connector loose/not having inserted it properly in the first place, but if it’s just a bad cable that would almost be easier
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This was my issue for ppm but not UART.
Make sure the throttle wheel is calibrated on the remote. Swap the VESC to ppm and write it, then swap back to UART and write again (make sure the Baudrate is correct, it should be by default) if it still doesn’t work well re-pair it.
I’m sure you’ve probably already done this but the Tx/Rx wires need to be crossed for some VESCs.
If you want the battery to display even if remote connection is cut use a separate battery wire. There’s a solder terminal for it on the reciever.
How can I tell if a TB 6380 motor actually has temp sensors? It has the ridged can and the itty bitty 6 pin jst
I don’t have any batteries or sensor adapters on hand to actually test the motor
Also how hard is it to replace the sensor wires on the PCB side?
From when are they?
We had the same conversation in August lol.
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Bought from TB in July 2020
Probably lol, but I don’t remember anything older than a week 
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Then there’s a 50/50 chance they have a temp sensor 
Mid to end 2020 (or 19??? My timeline is fucked) is when TB finally added temp sensors. I’d give your motors a 20% change of having working temp sensors. I believe Mooch said something about probing them? @Battery_Mooch
end of 2019 it is then
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Sorry, no. Not that I can remember at least.
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Guess my brain is kaput.
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Ahh well, thanks though!