What Evwan said is most likely correct. However, I always recommend measuring the pin pitch (center to center spacing of the pins) of the connector you’re trying to match, because the different sizes can look very similar and it’s easy to get them mixed up, or find a seller that has them mixed up (selling “XH 2.0mm” or something similar).
The common ones are:
SH (1.0mm)
GH (1.25mm)
ZH (1.5mm)
PH (2.0mm)
XH (2.5mm)
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SHILDED SIGNAL WIRE
hi all i think i need some shielding on my sensor wires my sensor wires i routed with my phase wires and now with long wire the sensor will not detect i tried with short sensor wire and the sensor will detect but do u guys think it will help on the long wire to do shielding on them and where to ground the shield
was thinking somthing like this cable Multi core shielded cable RVVP22AWG 0.3mm2 3 4 5 6 8 10 12 14 16 20 24 core anti interference control signal wire|Wires & Cables| - AliExpress
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It can’t hurt. It will either help, or have no effect at all.
Connect the shield to the ground wire that’s already going to the hall sensors. It’s usually the black one.
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Does anyone know what dongle will work when using a trampa wand remote with a FB unity? Would metrpro unity work? Open to any suggestions.
Hey man, judging by your name and profile picture, you live in NYC too. Although I cant answer your question, i’d recommend getting a hoyt puck or the not yet available freesk8 OSRR. Many people and I have had some really scary disconnects from a large amount of interference in Manhattan. I have almost gotten hit by a car while using a vx1 and even evolve remotes tend to disconnect. If you’re set on having telemetry, I’d recommend a Davega and a hoyt puck or the freesk8 remote when another batch becomes available.
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Yeah I just moved out to the suburbs in Jersey. I really just like the look of the trampa remote and wanted to see if I could get it to work with my foc box without having to buy another Vesc. The freesk8 looks like a really nice remote.
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We’ve heard lots of people complain about wand issues I wouldn’t recommend it either
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Question 1: I want to add some angled risers to the rear of my board to decrease the truck angle therefore increase stability. I have 4x 7 degree risers and 50 degree baseplates. Ideally I would want an angle around 30-35 degrees, but I think 2x 7 degree risers is the max I can safely get away with, that being 36 degrees. What’s the consensus on stacking angled risers, assuming I can convince the bolt to go through all the holes?
PS: I have 12.9 grade steel bolts in pretty much all sizes I could need.
PS2: I can’t get a lower anglee baseplate now. Noone sells it locally and paying for shipping for a baseplate alone just isn’t worth it for me. Plus I already have riptide caliber II pivot cups that I would want to keep using.
Question 2: Would you rather run 50/36 or 43/36 degrees, on BN270 trucks? The board should top out at around or slightly below 65 kph or 40 mph. While I was still on 10 inch caliber hangers I could reach 57 kph (measured) and 60-62 kph (speculated) on 50/50 degrees with assymetrical bushings (Venom HPF barrels, front BS 93A RS 87A, rear BS 93A RS 90A). However having to brake while going that fast was VERY sketchy, that’s the area I would like to improve on the most.
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Hello, are there currently any decent enclosures for the Zenit AB 2.0?
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It appears that I can’t convince the baseplate to go onto the screws with 14 degrees of risers. Guess I have to live with a 43 degree rear then
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Is there any known faults on cheap brick charger ?
I have 2 10S chargers that stopped working for no apparent reason, is it worth it (and quick) to try and repair them ?
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Cheap switch-mode power supplies in general can be fairly unreliable, if the components selected are pushed too close to their limits. The most common failure modes, in no particular order, are:
- Main switching transistor(s) - If this fails it’ll usually blow the main input fuse, and could damage some other stuff along the way.
- Output diodes
- Control ICs
In general I would say that it’s probably not worth trying to diagnose and repair a failed cheap charger or power supply - Better to simply replace it with a higher quality one.
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What kind of bearing is this? No experience with this type of thing. It is currently a 10mm, but I need a 12mm.
its just a flange variant of whatever size bearing that is
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You can find the bearing trade number on the shield usually
E: and if it’s not there, just take the inside diameter ID, outside diameter OD, width, and flange measurements and find something that matches online. Theres a lot of ways to find a match like that, but I usually use McMaster since their site makes finding specific things real easy.
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what would be the best sheet to use to increase the stiffness and overall rigidity of a deck, Fiberglass or carbon fiber?
Carbon fiber has a much higher modulus of elasticity. You can even get special “high-modulus” CF that is even stiffer that the regular stuff.
Regular glass fiber has a modulus of ~10000 ksi (~7500 to 12500, it varies a bit depending on exactly which fiber).
Regular CF has about 3x that, at around 30000-33000 ksi.
High-modulus CF can be as high as 60000+ ksi, so up to 6x as stiff as glass.
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Unidirectional carbon fibre is pretty good
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Hey, I’m making fiberglass enclosure and I have put foam gasket on it. The noob question is, what is a good way to make holes in the foam? I already have holes in the fiberglass itself. I assume that drill bit will get stuck on the foam.
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If you hadn’t already put the foam on the enclosure, I would have suggested a circular hole punch.
Now that it’s installed, a hot implement (a soldering iron that you don’t mind defiling, a metal tube or rod, a large nail) would probably work well.
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