Why did this happen? Clearly something got too hot to keep working correctly… Would running a higher rated fuse keep it running cooler @MysticalDork or @b264?
I fused my charge port like a good boy using this fuse holder and 18ga wire.
The fuse was rated for 10A and didn’t blow… It’s still continuous. Just noticed my charger wasn’t charging my board.
Looks like the holder didnt allow as much heat/current as the wires connected to it and started melting
Yeah that part is apparent but why. It comes in a kit with several higher rated amperage fuses and should be able to handle more amps.
Really just focused on if using a higher amp rated fuse would affect heat at all.
@Venom121212
If the fuse itself has not blown, but the fuse holder melted, it indicates that the fuse holder was making poor contact with the fuse. Loose connections are common with poor quality fuse holders. Because they don’t make adequate contact with the fuse, they can allow dirt and dust to get in between the contact points - resulting in voltage drop.
Heating in an electrical circuit is always caused by current flowing through a resistance. If there is significant resistance in the contact between fuse and fuse holder, a current well below the fuse rating can cause enough heat to melt an inline fuse holder.
Note, this heating of the electrical fuse may not always be immediate. Whilst the initial resistance may be lower and the initial heating may not be enough to reach the fuse melting point, the heating can cause oxidation of the metal connections, leading to increased contact resistance.
This accelerates the heating effect until there is an “avalanche” of rapidly increasing heating/increasing resistance, leading to what may appear to be a sudden failure even some time after the installation.
TLDR: if the fuse holder melted, it is due to a lost connection
I do offroad a lot and it does look quite crooked.
I have a shiiiit ton of these guys laying around so I’m going to try and fix them in place better with heat shrink to keep them from untwisting. Maybe even solder it to one spring and glue in place?
Yeah yeah blade fuses and epoxy I know…
@Venom121212 yes, I agree with @Flasher.
I have always soldered fuses into the circuit, typically automotive blade type fuses.
Maybe try one of these
Or I might just try soldering that glass fuse into the circuit, but be really quick about soldering to it. You don’t want to hold the iron on it, as it can melt the element inside. I’ve soldered to glass fuses before, just be quick about it, and pre-tin the wire, and touch and go.
LoL yes of course this 
But in your case I’d just solder that glass one in
I had the same thing happen on my bike, with the same type of holder.
I suspect that the holder itself got hot due to poor connections inside.
I replaced the holder, and before installing a fuse I took it apart and went over the crimps inside with some solder and flux, to make sure they’re solid.
I haven’t had an issue since.
tldr, probably not the fuse, but the holder.
I have a questions about pulley compatibility. Another member on the forum has a set of Haggyboard pneumatic wheels with pulleys that fit TB218 and BN220 trucks. Will these pulleys fit an evolve/evolve clone truck? More specifically, I ride a Verreal RS. Thanks in advance!
I want to know this too. I’m running 5:1 gearing with 8" tires… Torque is pretty damn fine but I’m interested in knowing if I went from 140kv to 170 and just got 6:X gearing which is equivalent, what the wh/km would be and if more or less heat is generated.
@MoeStooge is an expert in this I believe. I don’t know the science behind it.
Lower kv means longer thinner wires, which means less possible amps.
In theory you get the same total power out of it at a lower rpm but in practice you both drop off the efficiency curve of an outrunner motor and get higher resistance in the windings due to them being longer and thinner.
Does this translates to “use as high kv as you can (within erpm limit of vesc, for example), then gear for the desired torque“?
Use as high kv as you need to be between 4000 and 8000rpm (seems to be around 200kv on 12s? Someone do the maths), then use reduction until you get the top speed and torque you want. If there isn’t any higher gearing to go for, then drop kv… or go for bigger motors, or both. It isn’t as simple as “lower kv= moar power”
If anyone has an extra boardnamics motor mount or idler mount pm me. I’ll buy it right now. I Didn’t receive mine in my last order 
4.2*50.4=10,080, so maybe around 160kv? (for 8064 rpm) also why between 4k and 8k rpm?
Also, does that mean an increased motor size would mean greater efficiency then (however big)?
I swear there was that guy with the fancy graphs around here but can’t find anything now.
Basically around 8000rpm is the peak efficiency. Beyond that mechanical and core losses begin to weigh down, and under that you need more amps to achieve the same power (W) output. More amps = more heat = more losses.
And keep in mind you will never, ever get to run a motor under any significant load at exactly 50.4v. and the battery does discharge as well. You also don’t really run your motors with the aim to reach maximum possible speed all the time, so if the theoretical max rpm passes that sweet point it’s fine
Oh and, a bigger motor has a limit. At some point the major losses start happening in the controller struggling to move that damn thing. Generally going one size bigger in motor dimensions to run it under limits tends to help. someone needs to come up with the exact numbers though
well now i have another problem, my charger is showing a green light but its not charging the battery whatsoever and im not sure whats wrong
Can you read the voltage from the board charge port?
Be VERY careful not to short anything
There was. But along with those graphs came alot of drama and nonsense
“4.2x50.4=10800” is correct, but that’s not the equation you want. You want (battery max voltage)x(motor KV), e.g. 50.4x170=8568.
High enough RPM to get good power without undue torque (power = rpm x torque), but low enough to not incur undue eddy current losses.
Within reason. Being underloaded is better than being overloaded because the efficiency dropoff is much less steep, but either is less than ideal.
