Yeah they look good and the fov looks good. I’m in the U.K. so shipping and duty might suck.
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I dont disagree. I just don’t like my face enough to show it off to the world 
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Maybe try setting up your esc’s with the windows tool.
I created a new account with the same name & avatar as I had prior to it being deleted for reasons that are not worth mentioning here, but could evoke much aggression and harsh language if I were to make those comments.
What I am going to ask is the forum administrators unpack the sql dump or whatever backups they have, create a simple grep statement to get needed data from the backups to recreate my account. I will say that if there is no backup the administrators need to start basic DR process & plan for BCP processes to be created. I will assume there are backups, and with that there are zero technical reasons my account cannot be restored. I can think of many non-technical reasons, but again not mention them as I am expecting that they will restore my account & those statements are invalid and unnecessary as all will be set right with my account on this forum So I will wait to see the response…
Thank you,
Jkarma
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@anorak234 @jamie this is my boyfriend @Jkarma, the forum allowed him to create a new @Jkarma account. Please advise.
Hey all 
I’m new to the esk8 world so bear with me!
I recently bought a lycoan GR since its sub £350 and ‘looked’ the best but after around 70 miles total it has started to turn itself off after a few seconds of acceleration and will not turn back on until plugged in. I’ve seen this is a fairly common problem with cheaper boards with bad batteries and esc’s and lycoan have agreed to send me a new battery after emailing them and explaining it. If it is the battery which is the issue, does it sound like it is dead beyond repair? The advertised battery is a “18650 cells in 10S3P 36V 7.5Ah 270Wh” so I didn’t expect it to give up after around a week of use.
Thanks in advance, I can’t wait to venture further in to esk8!
With my lack of technical knowledge I’d say it sounds like the bms
E: Have you measured the voltage yet?
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I think I might go with these, its been sooooo hard to find full face helmets that arent 300+. Do you know what helmets these are certified under? Also if glasses can fit underneath? 
Triple 8 makes a downhill helmet I think you can buy off amazon. Predator (Canadian) also makes some.
I think motorcycle helmets are possible a little chunkier, but I know for a fact some of the main differences are that usually a motorcycle helmet weighs more (though this is also really dependent on build material) and moto helmets usually dont have as great a field of view (hence the thicc visors on downhill helmets).
In terms of safety though, idt any skate helmets will be DOT or SNELL approved, if you’re into that. I haven’t compared those certifications to CSPC’s.
Depending on the speeds you ride at, half face might be enough, or if you’re gonna be going something like 20-25+ mph all the time i think the consensus is to use full face?
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I’ve been reading in to a lot of battery stuff but it’s so complex I’m still getting my head around it.
I thought I was slightly knowledgeable regarding battery safety because Ive used 18650s for a few years, boy was I wrong.
Do you know if it is possible to swap a BSC on an already assembled battery or even worth the effort thought? I seen something on here called a loopkey, would that solve the problem since it wouldn’t need a BSC?
Yah hard to say really without some data recorded or knowing how “deep” or low voltage the discharge cycles were. In general if you don’t over discharge a battery and don’t store a battery fully charged for an extended period of time (weeks to months) then you shouldn’t see such a short battery life. Most cells if kept within limits (not charged over 4.2V, not discharged below 3V per cell typically) then they will usually get a few hundred cycles (full charge to discharge) before they get down to 80% or less of their original capacity and are considered near end of life (soon the rest of the capacity will go away as well). If a cell is kept below max charge and above min charge it’s really ideal and should result in the most cycles. It could be the case that the battery was shipped full and died and early death as a result or it could be you over discharged it because the BMS didn’t cut off the power early enough and over-drained the battery. Like @xsynatic said it’s kinda just guesswork without more details or logging of the charge state at start and end of rides.
For some context I’ve used Lipos and 18650 based batteries and in both cases you should be getting at least a hundred cycles out of the battery so long as it isn’t physically damaged or over discharged/charged. Over discharging a battery can significantly take cycles out of it, or shorting it for a substantial amount of time, lots of things can cause damage to a given cell and make a whole battery appear to be shot (and is basically dead without some very careful surgery)
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I haven’t checked the voltage yet, the problem only really started today. 
before this it was only charging inconsistently which I should have taken as a warning (sometimes it would turn green after an hour, other times a few hours)
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Regarding fixing it too, you could replace the BMS or whatever term you’re used to using for the balance circuitry for the battery but would suggest checking out this thread:
You’d want to check out each of the cells if possible (via balance lead connections or otherwise with a voltmeter) to make sure things are good. For the most part the biggest risk working with 18650s is shorting something especially once your series connections are made since it is a relatively high voltage thing then and with low resistance shorting across the +/- can deliver a lot of amps and become an unintentional spot welder.
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Thanks both for the replies by the way,
that’s a super informative post so thank you for educating me.
Here’s hoping the replacement battery they send out will be a little better. I’ve seen a few posts like mine in the past week, so it could have possibly been a bad batch which they have spotted and are sending replacements out if the board was purchased within a time frame.
I do have one more question though. (I’m a pretty huge noob right now) but does this mean I’d be able to buy a more reputable battery granted it fits inside the encasing?
thanks again both!
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Thanks for the battery thread/post, I’ll check it out in the morning on my commute to work!
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Yes, we have many very talented battery builders here that can make a battery to the exact spec you want. Size, cell, bms, everything.
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I did see some of the beautiful work that people on here have made. Impressed is an understatement!
If the new battery sent from the manufacturer even shows any signs like this one did, I’m definitely going to try and get one done by one of the many talented people here
Honestly after the 70 miles I did on the board I definitely can’t go back to a manual now!
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I just went for another ride today and I noticed the same hiccups again in the motors. Its only when I accelerate, it seems like its struggling (single motor) but i wasn’t really pushing it. Should I be worried?
personally id tear it down and start trouble shooting. I wouldn’t want it to suddenly stop on me. Not sure what it could be though tbh. Have you tried re-uploading the firmware and running motor setup again?