That’s really well explained even I understood it after 1 reading. Thanks
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To open, you have to remove the grip tape. That’s where most carbon fiber decks would keep the lid since the whole board is basically a basket holding everything else.
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Anyone knows how to accurately calculate kv ratings? I searched up the mathematics for a lot of things but it’s not 100% accurate. Its close to it, but im still having some issues.
Im trying to figure out this motor’s kv:
In my math, this motor’s kv is 76. But I rounded that number. It would be 75 if it wasn’t.
Is there any way to tell the vesc that it has a different temperature?
The temp reading on one of my 4.12s is quite a bit off. Is there a way to tell it “you are at 28c instead of 13c” ?
Usually, its the software program that does it for you. But unfortunately, I don’t know if the system named it something else.
Its supposed to be Temp. Adj. Its basically the thermostat of the vesc software. Maybe someone knows the name for it and location?
Edit: its called thermistor.
So what cause DRV faults? Having trouble finding anything that gives me an understanding. having the wrong motor detection values seems like one thing… but for a motor that’s been running that suggests that the motor is having issues?
what else? what does it mean? 
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What causes DRV faults? Whatever the manufacturer made it to be operational and using the opposite system so that the chip will fail to read or causes overloading current that burns the chip.
For example, if you use FOC on a BLDC esc, it can cause a failure. Or, if you overcurrent the esc from it’s original program, it can short. So using a 12s system on a bldc esc that was programmed by using 10s and saying “hey, this esc can hold 12s no problem”, while it wasn’t tested at 12s, can cause DRV fault.
It’s really stupid I know…
Apparently pushing yourself instead of standing on it and hitting the trigger doesn’t cause this issue (sounds close to Amp bursting). Did you try changing the DRV settings? You Need Spi for this.
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So I went outside and did some testing, I couldn’t get the errors to go away doing motor detection right after getting the error…
For fun I switched the setting to BLDC… it never used to work before on BLDC and always threw faults, yet it worked good and no faults after 2 miles.
Though I can’t seem to get sensors to work with BLDC…
So I think the faults are a FOC thing, but that still requires more testing.
One question I have is that are these faults really causing any problems? They are 100% unnoticeable while riding, I’m just worried that the life of the ESC is being reduced the more I get.
In my case I’m asking about a 10s system, dual focbox, in FOC, that’s run the same way for some time. and suddenly threw this fault. [ and possibly the same on the other motor a few weeks prior which actually blew the fets]
so really I’m asking what can change that can suddenly cause a DRV fault…
no. and I had no idea there were DRV settings that could be changed.
Someone said the same thing. How high were you running your currents? For 10s it shouldn’t be too much. Sometimes, a small change can also be a factor. Thats also annoying.
I think he meant read drv though.
That is correct actually. The more you get DRV faults, the more it means that the esc chip is breaking down. To me, it sounds like your esc was built on bldc over FOC but I don’t think its the main cause since you were using foc for a while. But yeah, a few good tests should help.
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battery max 35A
motor max 70A
It’s a dual FSESC 4.20 Plus and I believe a lot of people run it on FOC…
I was going to do some testing but I broke a belt and don’t have any more 
I’ll probably just try get a 60D with the money I don’t have 
Well, I went to the vesc site and it did say that it was more common in 4.xx devices. But rip belt The necessary tool.
Edited: I’ll see if I can get better info about this. It seems that I missed a few pointers thanks to everyone.
It’s common that people set a higher motor max than battery max
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It is, but voltage sag can occur if the battery can’t supply the current that the motors can out draw. Its basically setting a limiter, but on the juice instead of the machine thats drawing it. Like for example:
You want your AC to work at its best, but you only allowed it to draw half of its currents. Its not gonna function right. You want the device to draw what it can, and not force the chip to burn out because it wants more power that its not allowing to supply.
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Suggest reading this.
(Because I cant explain it… )
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Oh, he explained it better. Thats similar to what I meant.
I’m a mathematics guy lol. Although, this math is basically having your motors active. Especially duty cycle.
Although…
I’m guessing the pwm voltage is the same for all pwms? Just checked… no it’s not…
Plus, this is the most confusing part. How did he pull these? Some of these aren’t spoken about in other motor builds.
Edit: This is what the process should had been:
This is how I’m running my motors.