Second point: why would you not be able to? It’s the same result, more lean for less turn
Can anyone with a vx2 remote tell me how the cruise control is implemented in it?
Precisely, does it keep a constant speed, across uphills, straights and downhills?
Or it only locks the throttle position and you need to tinker with it every time the ground changes?
How much more throttle range does it have compared to vx1? (Visual demonstration if possible?)
the only 1 time i used CC on my vx2 was on flat ground, with tiny bumps here and there, it kept 19km/h for whole duration (6km tested), so i don’t know what would happen for up and down hill. Maybe others with more experience can provide more info.
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idk about the VX2 but the VX1 does this. locks the throttle position.
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Yeah, i have the vx1 and it sucks ass in this regard. I like matching my speed with cars doing the limit for the road and keeping it constant, but in my city the only constant flat roads are highways, or not even those.
Flipsky left a sour taste after the motors i’m still disputing with paypal, but remotes seem reliable at least.
Also tempted for a trampa remote since i know it does what i want, but AAA batteries and signal drops are a biiig nope
@frame if you got a bluetooth module you can easily check by looking at the motor current value. If it locks in place it’s like on vx1, if it drops after a certain speed (and/or raises on hills) it’s the good type
reliable ish.
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Well, yeah, classic flipsky qc signature.
The difference is you can solder back that wire. With shit signal your only option is to take the whole receiver out of the enclosure and hope for the best, or just run ridiculously long wires and tape it to the remote :))
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my only CC experience was done pre-metr time, I will see if I have time tomorrow night to test the CC again if it doesn’t rain. Quite busy tomorrow, don’t count on me 
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So I’ve read that I should inspect my vesc before plugging it in, and I just wanted to check with you guys, because I don’t trust my judgement lol
I think the soldering looks fine, but do you guys think otherwise?
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Nothing looks bad at a first glance. Small solders are neat and bigger ones (phase wires) are juuust enough.
What you need to look for is solder balls left over on the pcb after they were washed. Most are about half a mm and are stuck on the pcb (but might fall due to vibrations and short some pins)
Example:
You can see 3 over there. I can see 0 in yours but check yourself. Everything is visible through the heatshrink
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No, I don’t see anything. It looks pretty clean to me. Thanks
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Also, just thought I would ask, what is the cable with the brown, red, and yellow wires? I know what everything else is, but I’m not sure what that is
Typically a easy to use cable for pwm remotes. One is gnd, one is 5/3.3v and one is the pwm signal. Don’t know which is which there.
If you use a uart remote just ignore it
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Yeah, I’ll just be using the vx1 vua uart. Okay, thanks
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via*
Question about battery percentage indicator:
So I added an indicator to let me know how much % I have left, but when I go to the Vesc tool app, what I got are two different %s. My indicator says 44% but my app says 36%. Which one is more accurate?
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Can’t edit apparently, but I answered my own question. The remote power switch is so faulty, that holding it seems to fix the issue. So yes, I definitely need to replace the remote.
Edited just to say finally, I can edit.
So Im getting a weird issue after adding in the TX and RX lines of a uart port (rx uart vesc to tx receiver and vice versa) to a remote reciever.
When doing this, which ever vesc has the receiver plugged, it causes the motor to spin very rough and occasionally make the motor draw power… as soon as I unplug the tx and rx lines the motor returns to normal
Anyone ever ran into this before?
Is there any possibility of major harm to the vesc or receiver if I try to swap the wires?
Why can’t I find information on this site about using smartphones as a esc remote? Is bluetooth unreliable?
I have an android app communicating via bt with an arduino attached to my esc. The volume keys change speed and touch buttons manage spin direction and braking. I placed them in a way to avoid fat-fingering/butt-dialing them. Arduino handles disconnection by decelerating according to current ppm (no hard brakes). This is the only remote I’ve ever used, and it’s served me well for the 10+ mi test runs that I’ve been doing earlier this week.
I’m worried about the lack of tips and guides of using phones as esk8 controllers. What’s the reason for this?