Couldn’t find you, so put you at the next level.
He supposed to have shipped that to my face already…who’s hand are you using this time @BillGordon?
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No, it’d be better if the esk8 appears to work fine, but it gives five beeps whenever starting without the key. Riding in five-beep mode, the wheels hit full brake (with no warning) as soon as it passes 20mph (32km/h), or at least some random speed right in that area.
@BillGordon I just tried to do the @ and your name thing on the other forum but it said I had to invite you to the PM which was with @b264. Sadly, I have no idea how to do that? Never the less, I’m truly grateful for being bumped up a level because I was still a noob over there albeit lots more reading under my belt before plucking up the courage to get involved!
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Hey @Athrx before I make any more hasty purchasing mistakes, I found these on A-zon.com and will bite the exchange rate and shipping costs to Canada if you think they are any good? If not, might you be wiling to suggest a better quality option if indeed that is needed? Thanks again.
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I think I’m gonna need a puller to help me get a motor apart.
bearing on the pulley side actually came out of the motor and moved on the shaft but is now stuck further out on the shaft ( across the keyway) can’t find my f’n phone to show a picture.
Any tool recommendations? as I browse the besos tool shed.
Harbor Freight has them for $20
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Link doesn’t work. Check @Anubis 's shop. He has some flipsky nrf modules for cheap and royal mail is reasonable as well here
Out of stock, because i ordered a TON, then flipsky switched out the massive quantity for antispark switches on the invoice and we didnt notice (cost like 4x more 
), so now i literally have bags and bags of antisparks and no bluetooth modules.
Coming soon though
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The two and three jaw pullers sucked for me because they could never get underneath pulleys, they are too fat.
This worked much better, but it’s just barely long enough but works great on 8mm shafts and 15mm wide pulleys. Really great. Not sure about your issue without a photo, but this should be in every builder’s drawer IMHO unless they have a better one
just turn it backwards until the plunger thing pops off and toss that piece in the garbage
the resulting screw threads fit into an 8mm bore
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deck routing question
ive a landyachtz wolfshark deck and am considering routing the underside just so the batteries can lie flat. There is zero flex on the deck, which measure at about 1.5cm thick. I’d be shaving off 3-4mm i’m guessing. Ive 2 questions:
how much wll this compromise the structural integrity of the board (i.e. should i do it or not)?
if i can do it without caveats, what tool will i need to do? (maybe even a belt sander would do the trick?)
^ similar yo the question above…
I’m wanting to mount my charge port and antispark switch above my rear truck on my LY Evo. I’ll have to drill a hole in the deck for this. I’ve never put holes in a deck before and just want to be sure that this is no problem for the structure of the board.
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I need new motor mounts for my board. Im running tb 220mm trucks with the 63mm motor mounts but the 6380 motors bent both my mounts so im only able to use one right now, less bent of the 2. Im looking for someone who can cnc some mounts or just guided me to better ones that don’t twist due to the power of the motor
can started to come off, with heat and tap of a hammer on wood. got stuck. going back on it popped the bearing out some. and it’s stuck there.
but also the can doesn’t mmove in the rear bearing very well either. I only 680’d the pulley side bearing IIRC.
tap it back in, clean the shaft with some sand paper?
Not sure if this should go to the Battery Builders thread since this is kinda a noob question, but when soldering 18650s together with nickel strips, should there be a few layers of nickel? Or an extra layer of copper (this seems ideal but I’m not sure how one would add say copper braid to nickel strips that have been spot welded)? From what I’ve read on this and the old forum, one layer of nickel isn’t sufficient for making packs.
you can go up to 8" on evolve hubs.
Where do you mean? The outside bearing only needs it if the head of the bolt touches the bearing shield
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Yeah good point. I was actually just thinking this.