Motor shaft wear [Serious]

motor shaft has wear where it meets the bearing. is this a normal failure mode?

where can I find replacement shafts? ( 8mm with 3mm keyway, 6374 motorI think it’s a maytech )

My motor was starting to make growling noises. I took it apart expecting that the bearings were going bad. What I found is the shaft had worn down where it contacts the bearing. instead of 8mm it’s 7.74 and you can feel this play when the motor is together. the bearings themselves seem ok when I used the shaft from a new motor.

is this a normal failure mode? bad bearings or belts too tight? i’ve been thinking it’s belts too tight. because I was running them tighter due to slippage when braking. ( 220lbs vs dual 15mm HTD5 belts ) i’ve ordered some motor mounts with idlers from @IDEA to try to avoid this problem.

I replaced one motor with this problem, but the second one needs help still. is it possible to find replacement motor shafts? ( 8mm with 3mm keyway, 6374 motorI think it’s a maytech )

Update later in the thread I found a third motor it happened to: Motor shaft wear [Serious]

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Wow. I’ve never seen that before. Or at least i’ve never noticed it. Now i want to dig through my drawer of dead motors and see if i have any like that.

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I have seen this once in a pair of Boosted motors

It happens due to the bearings getting locked and the shaft spinning inside the inner race, and since the bearings material is harder than the shaft it grinds it down

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Interestingly I have two bad boosted motors. I just haven’t figured out how to get them open to see what’s wrong.

Corrosion/ loss of lubrication in this case causing the bearing failure initially then the shaft damage, it should have sounded terrible

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Id say opening them without damage is pretty much impossible, at least I couldn’t

The pulley is press fit, and so is the shaft in the can, I ended up cutting the pulley in half since I won’t use it anyway, it’s stainless steel so make sure to have a bunch of dremel cutting disks at hand

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@akhlut has successfully opened, cleaned, and battle hardened my boosted v1 motors. Unfortunately he couldn’t do bearing replacement because it’s nearly impossible to ‘separate the shaft from the stator’ - if I remember correctly

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The bearings still spin freely though, they don’t seem bad, which seems weird. which is why i was wondering if over tightened belts could be a factor.

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Shaft from the bell. Impossible. Without destroying it.

Getting the pulley off sucked. Had to melt the cap and remove the magnet. The heat the pulley with a torch to get it off.

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If nothing is wrong with the bearings then thats truly odd. What does the ID of the bearing look like?

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@Akhlut What’s the width of the stator on those boosted v1 motors?

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Mine was the same, the bearing still seems fine spinning by hand

I didnt measure it. Smol af.

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I noticed on a set of older tb6380s the other day that the sockets for the two grub screws at the very end of the shaft had ovalled out, causing the motor to rattle a little.

Guess this is why they have moved to 4 grubs now?

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while it’s possible I guess, my experience from other similar situations is the bearing will actually give out due to large external loads… (i.e. belt too tight)

this pitting looks more like corrosion pitting, or bimetallic corrosion, or other forms of corrosion, and not the typical burnishing that would happen in high speed metal to metal axial contact

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Not going to lie I havnt assembled a belt drive in awhile, and I’ve forgotten how tight ‘too tight’ is.

Poor quality images:


I had to hulk out to even get the god damn wheel pulley to fit within the belt size I had got (Romp BBV1 Belts).

I’m thinking of getting belts a size larger (by literally 6mm), to solve the issue… Worth it?

Just enough tension to avoid the belt skipping with the currents settings you use

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stator boy back again

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small dicks always need quantitative verification

I had the same problem with TB motor. I still continued using it but it made a clicking sound. I think it was because of high belt tension.

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