Hfi is decent, just saying.
Look at detection values. If they’re too different something’s fucked in the windings.
If it’s like …
51.27A / 50.94A
23.78mOhm/ 24.01mOhm
(Pure examples) it good.
If you see your phone number in ohm values it not good
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Good Day Everyone,
Been hanging out on the old forum for way too long and thanks to @b264 for directing me to you brilliant people. Following same said advice to post a question so if I got this wrong @Fosterqc I sincerely apologize 
I have a two projects on the go: A stand-on electric golf push cart with major components from Maytech. Works great but has a few niggles I’m hoping to get a bit of help with on here.
The other project is just killing me! I used Maytech motors, vests and remote for my son’s longboard build and have hit a mountain of trouble trying to configure it using the ackmania vision of vesc tool for a Mac (Fully Apple household). I will tackle the issues one by one, but just wanted to say hi and to make sure I got the noob asking a question but right?
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that’s estUUpid… the male ends are more prone to accidental shorting than the female end…
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Welcome. Btw vesctool is now available on Apple 
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Thank you and THANK YOU!
And @Fosterqc, I’m headed to the introduce yourself as I write so thank you too.
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I would just update to the latest version available on vesc project site and buy a bluetooth module (ranges from £12.50 to £25) and do the wizard, then tinker with settings from there.
Takes a bit of getting used to, but keep in mind:
When you connect, you are changing settings on the vesc side the bluetooth module is connected
When you scan canbus, you are presented with all other vescs connected through can. On a dual it’s just 1 other.
Keep in mind if you are adjusting remote settings, on which side you connected it to.
Read, change value, when write settings to vesc. They will not write on all vescs, you need to connect/disconnect from can as needed and repeat the process on all vescs.
Remember to change max battery and battery regen amps to what suits your battery pack.
I wouldn’t pass the total maximum discharge rate of the pack/ split to the number of vescs (let’s say a 40A pack on a dual is 20A/side)
For regen, a safe start is double the fast charging rate of the batteries. Example: 4pair 30q battery can charge at 16A. Double is 32, split on a dual vesc it’s again -16 amps/side regen.
These are advices which will differ depending on who you ask, but should give you a decent start in what you want from a board
Edit: avoid hm-10 bluetooth modules. Discontinued compatibility. Look for nrf types
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Thanks @Athrx. That was my very next task this afternoon and thank God you mentioned the incompatibility aspect of the hm-10’s because just as mosquitoes can seek ME out in a crowded room, I am brilliant at picking the one wrong item amongst crowded pages of goodies!
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What are you guys doing yo keep your phase wires from touching? I was going to cover where the connect in Velcro sleeves but wanted to see if this was a bad idea or if there are better/cleaner solutions.
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I triple sleeved them in heatshrink before putting the braided sleeves over it all
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Damn , that’ll do it lol
I remember seeing a photo using 4 zip ties to separate all 3 phase wires neatly.
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I saw that (and plan on implementing that) but I didn’t see how it separated the phases. Just thought it neatly organized them out.
So I’ve been looking to wrap my TB motors in a carbon vinyl wrap, but was also thinking about plasti-dipping them. Any negatives to doing that that I should be aware of?
would it be insane just to have my power switch as this?
not exactly this switch, but something similar (key removeable after turn to on position)
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Not insane , ebikes do it. Now that specific switch I have no idea.
That would be cool, but wouldn’t that work better if the skateboard was unable to move until you put the key in? Also, don’t those kind of connector forces you to keep the keys on the plug itself?
I’m basing this off on E-bikes.
there are different types, im referring to a switch that has ON/OFF position and both position still allow the key to be unplugged to keep lock in said position.
I can imagine it working in a build, but I know I will be too lazy to keep turning the key, also I will lose my key in the first week.