Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

So I’m in the middle of figuring out how I’m going to be setting up my ESCs (planning on getting two the Torqueboards’ new ESCs; oddly enough the images on the site haven’t been updated yet) and after doing some digging, the topic of how two ESCs should be paired seems to be a pretty contentious topic. From what I’ve seen, there are three ways of connecting them:

  1. CANBUS (This seemed to be the least used due to experiences with ESCs being fried, but also some manufacture recommends it)

  2. PPM (or PWM or Y split? A little unclear if these are different)

  3. Using two receivers (one for each ESC) and pairing them to one remote, with no connection between the ESCs besides the parallel connector to the battery. (also if this is the ideal solution, which remotes actually can connect to two receivers at once? I also found a thread for this but it just turned out to be a long argument lol)

Sorry for the extra long posts I’ve been making; I really want to reduce the chances of ballsing up my build and dropping way more cash than I need to. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!

Option 1 only canbus failures are no longer a thing unless you have a OG focbox or neobox. All other options are meh with modern firmware.

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If this is an HTD5M synchronous timing belt, then definitely go for the 18:62.

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Going to be routing my wires ontop of the deck since I’m doing a split enclosure. Is adding epoxy to the wires really necessary, or will I be just fine without adding anything for reinforcement

Guys, I’m really dumb with wire standards. What jauges/type of wire should I use to extend my BMS balance wires safely?

only the focbox 1.6 and jedbox/jeffbox has this issue

also works, but one side of esc only requires the “PPM” signal wire, 5V and GND is not needed

@b264 has a thread about it How to bind the Mini Remote [Serious]

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yeah using 5m, why would you definitely choose one over the other?

Shipping a complete with battery internationally? Is express allowed, or slowboat only?

@malJohann From my google Fu research I’ve gathered this:
Equipment with lithium batteries installed is permitted by air as long as you fill the dangerous goods contract, pack it very securely (ex.: Rigid exterior box to prevent crushing) and put a UN3481 label.

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DHL: air travel is allowed, but it has to be declared as DG. upon pick up / drop off at service centre they may also need to check how you’ve packed it if said battery isn’t encased within a device. some info is also needed if item “looks” big, for example, battery type / diamension / Wh…etc

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Touched phase wires or dead shorted motor widlndings inside?

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13T on HTD5M doesn’t engage very well, can slip easier, and wears out belts faster. You want more tooth engagement, not less.

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Noob question here: I’ve got a Landyatchz evo falcon 36, and want to make it as AT capable as possible. Would channel trucks work on the board? Or are there any risers out there that can make it work? My main concern is the tail end of the board points downward.

It’s also generally recommended not to go below 15 teeth on HTD5M. You can, but the further under that you go, the worse. Less engagement, higher possibility to skip, fast belt wear, possibly more noise. 12T is about the absolute limit for an HTD5M tooth profile.

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There are adjustable baseplates for channel trucks that you could buy to make work with that deck. You can also just use a wider skate truck with some 6" pneumatic wheels and hubs.

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Do you know what I would need to search up to find those baseplates? If I use a wider truck and air tires, would it absorb the same amount of vibration as channel trucks with air tires?

Thanks for the help :smiley:

Etoxx adjustable baseplates.

Absorption wise, I don’t feel a ton of difference in the truck styles on the same wheels.

It’s more of a riding style change. Channel trucks ride more like a snowboard and you end up using your whole body while riding.

If you’ve never tried channel trucks, I’d give them a go. I love the way they ride compared to rkps.

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Awesome thanks for the help, Ill give them a try if I can get it to work :smiley: My main concern was if Id be trading in ride comfort, the roads in my area aren’t the best. Thanks for the help!

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But torque…

except perhaps right at the motor I don’t think the phase wires could have touched anywhere.
but I’m going to go ahead and open the motor up next to see if I can see a cause.