Yo, anyone who knows about the torqueboards mini remote, can you answer me?
I almost had a wipe out from my board because of a random disconnection from the remote. My board is programmed to slow down if my remote ever lost connection. Is there something up with the remote?
Rip to my sandals.
Decrease the “lost connection” braking amps and increase the ramp up time. You definetly don’t need to stop on a dime and something like 0.8s gives you plenty of time to react to normal braking as well.
Disconnects happen, especially in busy areas. There are a few “bulletproof” options around here but nothing is really immune to this
Thanks. Where would I find that in vesc tools so that my board doesn’t try to flip me off again?
Also, I’m making sure to keep my signal wires from being blocked. I had it covered before so ill see if that works.
Thanks for the reply! I was actually just looking through that thread lol.
Another noob question: will any kind of wax work in keeping the fiberglass from sticking to the mold? Or just automotive wax (per the thread you linked). And would the process work for carbon fiber too?
Search bro. There is plenty on here about this.
Here’s one:
Also look at the old forum, whitepony stuff if you any so see some of the possibilities…
Okay, either I might be high or something is up, but I can’t re-edit my posts. I was trying to change my post to say nevermind, I figured it out, but I can’t. But thats pretty much it.
For best results you should always use products specifically made for your application.
Can highly recommend honeywax as a mold release.
Yes and yes. Any kind of wax will be better than nothing. There are composites-specific mold release products, but regular old car wax is usually fine.
Thank you all for the advice; it’s greatly appreciated!
How do you guys do cut-outz for your loop keys and charge ports and shit? Started using a Dremel cutoff wheel to follow the lines I marked on my enclosure before realizing that’s way not-presicion enough of a tool.
I did mine by carefully scribing the outline of the XT90 into the plastic of the enclosure with a knife blade, drilling 2 holes to get the bulk of the material out, cut the bridge between holes to get most of the rest out, then spend 10 minutes with a wood file. Alternatively you can do the last step with a sharp knife or chisel
Also this is why I made those XT90 covers…then you could have just over sized the hole and the plastic would have hidden it
man, a razorblade wouldn’t touch the fiberglass and resin coat. Need something sharp 
I marked the cutout with a sharpie, then drilled two 6mm holes, and continued with a Dremel and a routing bit. When I got close, I finished it off with a couple of needle files.
this is really neat
hell yeah, very nice.
is this a specific dremel routing bit?
Oh lol, I’d go for an abrasive bit in a Dremel then finish with fine files
The smaller of the common sandpaper bits is still too large, so I used this one
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/193-carving-bit
I think the steel bur bits would work too right?
dope, I think have one of these. Thanks for the help dudes 
