Don’t misunderstand me, it definitely freaks me out too limping home with a freespinning motor.
But I keep reminding myself that the problem is inside my head and not on the skate. 
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I couldn’t bear that. I’m already self-conscious when riding my board regular and something makes a sound, like a squeaking bushing or the belt itself. I wish i wouldn’t be there at that moment.
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I bench tested the Century 40 that I wrecked on close to a month ago. The throttle was unpredictable and I was able to replicate the sudden locking up on one side that I experienced on my fateful ride by just by letting off and getting back on the throttle and I heard the same loud motor noise when it locked too. It also wanted to change directions on that one side. I decided to re-program the Unity. Using the latest VESC tool it was a total nightmare getting the motors to pass detection. Once the motors finally passed detection the throttle was still acting sketchy. I was concerned that the EnertionUSA/Amazon Unity I bought secondhand from a forum-member was the culprit (it still may be).
Before replacing anything else, I swapped the VX1 that was connected on UART for a Chubby Mod’ed Mini. Thanks @ryansinatra! Everything instantly behaved properly. No more “flux linkage errors”. Easy detection and smooth and predictable throttle response. I am still running un-sensored FOC with all other settings the same.
My questions are:
-
How can I know for sure if my VX1 went full Flipshit or if there is a problem with my UART port or another yet un-diagnosed ESC issue? I have a Meter Pro Unity module on order from the GB
but I am completely new to logging. -
I have multiple mini remote receivers, is it possible to make my board any safer by running more than 1 receiver into a Unity or is that asking for trouble? @b264
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I don’t use dual ESCs and don’t recommend them, so I am not sure about the Unity.
My setups that use one radio receiver per motor seem safer to me after extensive use with and without the additional receiver. But I don’t want to get flamed on here…
I still build with dual receivers, if that’s any indication to you.
But I don’t even know if that’s possible with Unity anyway. Or with a Flipsky remote. I don’t use those.
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I am definitely retiring the questionable VX1. The Chubby I am using now has mini remote internals and uses PWM which I am thinking may be more reliable than whatever UART witchcraft is going on with the FS remotes but I am not really sure.
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check the wiring on that thing. would be interesting to know if it broke from the throttle wheel wiggling them around like this:
[ or send it to me and I’ll check it. ]
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What are your ramp up/down values?
At 0 or really close to 0 you would indeed get very violent, wheel-locking cutouts if the remote is the issue.
Setting both to let’s say 1 second, would smoothly ramp up/down if the remote is the true issue. More than enough to adjust your position on the board too.
If the esc or motors are the issue, this will probably do nothing.
One more thing: did you ride in the rain? Vx1 has practically a gaping hole right on top of the potentiometer.
Water entering that would either mess it up instantly, or later on corrode the semiconductive surface plate/disc/band/whatever they chose, the tracking pin or both inside
I saw your post and opened mine up prior to the bench test. Thanks for sharing that! Everything in the transmitter looked proper. I am thinking it is a borked receiver.
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I’d measure the resistance between each of the pins of that potentiometer, while turned off, while pushing and pulling the throttle. It should be relatively exponential, but obviously predictable. Spikes in values means it’s fucked
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I don’t have any experience with the vx1 remote but I’ve seen close to a dozen reports of it not working correctly with the unity now. I’m sensing a trend…
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any sense of uart vs ppm mode on those reports?
because I’m not sure why the unity would change it’s reliablity.
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Me either, but I’ve seen uart mentioned most often. Just a sideline observation.
Maybe this helps a bit?
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Has anyone tried dickyho’s normal mounts with pneumatics?
Axle to motor distance is adjustable between 77~81mm
I would want to fit 15~16t to 60t belt drive and 1 idler.
I have calculated that i would roughly need 365mm belts (maybe 370 with the idler?) but i’m hoping to get some advice from someone who did it already before me before throwing money into the issue.
Help?
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anecdotal evidence at best, when I bought a Kaly i also bought a second Hoyt receiver, and the Vx1 that came with the board has operated flawlessly connection-wise for many months and miles, on a Unity… I’m not planning on knock on wood opening the enclosure up and swapping to a hoyt till I need to…
only thing that is borked on the VX1 is the voltage LEDs my board is depleted when two LEDs flash down to one lit…
I kin deal with that!
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The problem was solved by using a Vx1 Non Vesc receiver.
if by vesc you mean uart, there’s no difference in uart vs ppm vx1 receiver. just different cabling.
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Ppm. I was told different. Went with the Non Vesc and it’s still working.
The one for Vesc 6 didn’t work on ppm. Unless it was bad out of the box new.
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I could be wrong. but 90% sure I’m not. pretty sure it’s just the different pinouts on v6 vs v4 and uart vs ppm.
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Unfortunately, with Flipsky, that’s not very uncommon and you always consider the possibility
QC costs money, ya know
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I’m aware of that now.
Had to fix some Flipsky stuff to make it work.
But I’ll admit after inspecting and fixing there F ups it’s working good now.
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