Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Yep. Getting a part which actually fits its the way to go yes. But i currently don’t have the money or tools to make it like it should be.

@b264 No, everything is the same as before except the motor pulleys. Before i took my 1 1/2 month break i had cheap alu pulleys on there. Before i had the alu ones i used the TB pulleys which were the culprit in the first place. After changing them out to the alu ones the problems were gone. Now with the new motors i got new pulleys which installed and did the first test ride today = noise the alu ones didn’t have.

So far = Steel noise
Alu = no noise

I can’t get a better alignment since i use mounts with crossbars and the switch to fivestars took some space since the pulley sits deeper inside the hub.

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try to find some copper or aluminum shim stock and arctic silver that crap to the crappy Jedbored case…

fukk that case is awful…

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this is a very good suggestion; seconded

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after going out for a ride today I was nearing the end of my journey, and I noticed that my battery was near depletion so I popped my case and noticed that my voltmeter was alarming. Not noticing the sound in the case! One of my cells dropped down to 2.8v which I know is no good for the battery. I immediately stopped riding and disconnected the battery but the weird thing is by the time I walked back to my car my voltage was upto 3v on the affected cell. my batteries are brand new am I witnessing voltage sag or is this the norm for lipo batteries after use?

0.2 of a volt rebound is fairly normal

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I would definitely set cutoffs higher on lipo than on li-ion. 2.8V discharge on lipo sounds like it will be a really short lifetime battery.

There is a thread also

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thanks il look into that then. but when it cuts you off does it throw you off?

@pekkas no. The start is when your board will start to limp. The end is when you no longer have throttle but still have brakes

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there is a soft cut that will only limit power that you can feel if you’re astute… and then it will gradually limit power till it stops putting power to the motors… zero throw offs in all my experience

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No, it just saves your battery.

The amount of max power will gradually decrease from the “start” to the “end”

Like @kook said, if you’re astute, you can feel that cutoff start. It’s at that moment when you know to head home or somewhere you can charge. Depending on your settings, you could get anywhere from another kilometer to tens of kilometers before you only have brakes and no throttle.

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My 12s has 3v of limping while my 10s only has 1.5v

Your setup also plays a part in this. My 12s is pneumatic and my 10s is hubs.

Energy consumption will be different. If you hit your start often, play with the numbers till you get something allowing you to get to a charger while maximizing the fun before you reach that point.

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My turn for a noob question

I know almost nothing about LiPo setups. Want 12s. I imagine I have to look for 6s and put em in series. What’s a good rating for a 6s LiPo?
Mah?
C rating?
Brand to avoid?

Tattu cells ans Turnigy cells seem to be good. Spec for capacity, discharge will never be a problem.

Not even the new GTR / Stoke series with their new flexi-PCB battery pack?

Kinda a noob question but 60D or 2x TB6? I was about to buy the TB6 but then mini Stormcore launch halted me.

They still have ESCs that cause your board to be resistant to repair, as far as I know. And their choice of 35E cells is very poor and based more on advertising than on science.

So, no.

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Plus they still use smaller motors which overheat very easily especially with the AT kit.

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@kevingraehl weren’t you just talking about a source for these bearings somewhere?

I wanna try that eurothane on mbs trucks some day too.

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Hoyt booger

I will disown you if you buy an evolve.

Exway x1 is a great board, no idea about the flex

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I wouldn’t expect great bearing life @22mmx12mm but if it’s for science…

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