i knew it…dude those batteries are like 300 bucks regular price…no way they are going for 61 bucks…lmao.
thx
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The stock image is what was ringing a bell for me.
Ps: that first one in my pic says eBay has em for 190?
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i was looking on the Tattu website…190 is a good price.
if the 2nd and 3rd google search came back with “if XXX website is scam” result, then its kinda obvious
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my fault timeout is 500ms on one board and 3000ms on the other two.
guess I’m gonna set it much lower. Are there any negatives to a shorter timeout?
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I’m not aware of any. I wouldn’t set it to zero.
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Anyone with powder coating experience ? I was wondering if the threadlocker holding the axle on a truck would resist to an oven cure (~200°C / ~400°F) . Everything else can be removed, but the axle would be annoying. I want orange Torqueboards trucks. 
@torqueboards What threadlocker is used on the TB DD trucks axles please ?
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Crosspost
To the battery builders. What do you think how “easy” it is to upgrade this 11 year old cordless drill. It has a 1.2Ah 14.4v NiCd battery with an output of 5A.
I still want to use the drill but the batteries won’t hold a charge. The tray can easily hold 8x 18650s in a 2 layer config. I only have to remove 2 small pieces of plastic to get them to fit.
So with 18650s it would be a 4s pack. Additionally 4s4p?
On tbe flip side a new one is between 20 and 30€ but only 3-3.5Ah
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Get a second hand drill by this point lol.
Even if you fit everything, that motor is made to take 5 amps, that charger will probably take half a day to charge your batteries or it may not work at all.
I see full set makitas for £40 on fb marketplace. Battery probably abused but changing li-ion to same type is a different world
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I would not try to DIY a drill battery, the market is flooded with cheap ones that work okay.
Spend the same amount of time using the drill you buy — to DIY a higher-ROI item 
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i can’t find any lithium battery for my drill so i’m gonna make my own too, it’ll have double the capacity
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Stupid question: Clear coating is just for protecting the deck right? Would it be better to have the company clear coat the deck, so I don’t have to deal with that, and will it affect the process of adding grip tape on top of the clear coat?
That’s not a stupid question!
Clear coating stops water ingress into the deck and protects the paint from scratching. Its quite easy to do yourself but getting someone else to do it might be better if you don’t feel confident.
Grip tape sticks well to all the clear coat i’ve used and most out there
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We use medium threadlock currently. You’ll want to heat it up with a torch if you can’t break the seal.
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Okay, thanks! I think I’ll let the company do it, since I don’t wanna have to deal with buying the chemicals
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Oh cool, I didn’t know that, thanks
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Calling all people with wires routed into your decks!
What compound (if any) have you used to fill in the void between the deck and the wires?
I have a Vanguard that is getting some cosmetic surgery, and I woild like to retain the same flex even after routing the wires. The plan is to use either 12awg silicone wire or flat braided copper. I have the 12awg on hand so leaning towards that, however the braided copper might be a better choice.
What I have thought about so far is:
- Normal 2 part epoxy, not sure if it will break from the flex
- West System 650 G/flex Toughened Epoxy or something similar, how flexy is this stuff?
- Silicone
- Leave it bare (I would like to avoid this)
Would it be better to make a single channel for both, or one channel for each cable, in oder to keep the same stiffness?
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Nothing. Granted mine came with the channel already routed. They just have tape over the channel and then the Griptape.
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