Dunno… I don’t have a vx1. I got that diagram from the product page on flipskys website
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Yes you absolutely can. I believe using UART over PPM granted you one small feature. Was it reverse? Could be reverse but that doesn’t matter since you have reverse via the vesc itself.
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Awesome, I’ll go that way for now untill I buy a better ESC. Thank you! 
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Does anyone have a good voltage regulator to go from 12s to 5v?
I’ve only found really big ones or ones on aliex. Looking for something small and reliable with a few amps on the output. The pololu ones have a max input of 50v, do esk8s see voltage spikes from braking that would fry it?
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Quite a few buck converters available from Digikey or Mouser, or any of the other big electronic component retailers. They all have some kind of parametric search, just pick your desired input and output voltages and currents, and browse the resulting list.
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Check here. If it’s not here, please add it when you find it.
This is the same issue as living at the top of a hill, charging a full battery, and trying to brake while at ~50.4V.
TLDR: Don’t
Pretty easy to only charge to 50V - prolongs your battery life, cell cycles, etc etc.
It would be interesting to know what kind of extra head room those Pololu regulators have. I’d be shocked if it was fried at 50.01V. They’re definitely higher quality than the super cheap alibaba ones.
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How much current? Less than an amp these aren’t great but also not terrible. I’ve only had one shit the bed and I’ve used probably ten of them or more.
LM2596HV
This is adjustable though, and not fixed at 5V
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I’ll take a look, thanks!
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Will add if I find what I’m looking for!
I’d like to have a good amount of headroom so a few amps to run some bright leds and a microcontroller and maybe a display of some sort
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Inc/PDQE10-Q48-S5-D?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsc0tfZmXiUnQ%2BwKZhbvwnu1sxCB9gq8l6D95Cvxb3qQw%3D%3D
18-75v input, 5v 2A output, 25x25x12mm, $16.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Inc/PDQE15-Q48-S5-D?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsc0tfZmXiUnQ%2BwKZhbvwnuEZgnTYsrWspX6s2KknA0lg%3D%3D
Same as above, but 3A and $19.
Quite a bit more spendy than the usual boards from Aliexpress and the like, but these actually have a proper datasheet and certifications.
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Thanks! Would you recommend getting a pcb fabbed for this?
In the past I’ve usually either just used PerfBoard, or soldered wires directly to the pins. The only exception was the one on my ebike, which needed some extra filtering anyway so a quick order from JLCPCB was a good call for that one.
There is a variant of that 10w one that is already on a little PCB with screw terminals for input and output if you want to save some work for yourself - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Inc/PDQE10-Q48-S5-T?qs=w%2Fv1CP2dgqqtQ8KoTyjtSQ%3D%3D
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Does anyone run dual motor on diagonal wheels if so why/why not?
My first board was dual diagonal for space reasons - The motors and trucks I was using meant that there was no way they would both fit on the back.
You get a bit of weird power-steer when you accelerate or brake hard (the board kinda wants to crab sideways a bit), and of course it’s more of a pain to wire.
I would rate it “doable, but avoid if possible.”
Long wires. That’s why they aren’t as popular, in a nutshell. Also, less predictable/manageable behavior. I don’t like single drive at all. Most of the problems with it are amplified in a dual diagonal setup.
In perfect conditions, it’s a good idea. You will never run into perfect conditions in the real world. As such, I prefer predictable behavior.
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So the only other option for larger motors is larger trucks with an increased turning circle then?
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Or, dual shaft. The sacrifices of one motor running two wheels are far more ignorable.
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Thanks I’ll have a look into that
I’ve ridden a dual diagonal setup. It worked well, but, just like a single drive, there will be some very clear downsides. Torque drive/losing power will show up when cornering hard, and present itself in a way that’s hard to adjust for, while riding. And it maintains what I call the single drive shuffle, where your board does a very specific wiggle when you let off the throttle. It also makes maintainenc, setup, and every step in between, more work. And doesn’t really have an upside. It’s not necessarily a bad plan, but I would still advise against, unless you have no choice and are prepared to learn to adjust to it.
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