Depends on the number of pulley and belt teeth. If they’re a mutually divisible ratio like 2:1, then they’ll stay in sync. If they’re not, then they’ll have to go around some number of turns to get back to the starting configuration.
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honestly that big ass black square fet just below the canbus will prevent case contact… I just looked at mine…
it’s just literally EVERY OTHER PIN on that board are way too long… I’m going to flush cut all mine… they’re like crazy long…
the thermal pad will probably keep you safe til it wears down then maybe magic smoke…
thanks for pointing this out… you should post it up on the NeoBox thread… how many peeps actually look under the thermal pad…
it’s crazy…
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ohhhhh boy… 
did you ever get in on the only prime numbers in gear-sets discussions…
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Nope, I don’t want any piece of that math soup. I know just enough to stay the fuck outa it.
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What’s a reasonable ESC to buy at this point? From what I can gather, Stormcore and VESC are expensive, Maytech and TB seems relatively unproven, Neobox didn’t pan out, Focboxes are gone, Flipsky has terrible QC, and cheap FOCer is still in beta.
Tell us more about what you want from your build.
ESCs are down on number 4, did you have anything in mind already for deck, enclosure, and battery?
What are your priorities?
Cost? Range? Reliability? All-terrain? Svelte Looks? Bragging Rights? Top Speed? Transportation Needs? All-weather? Lightweight? Done building soon?
Which 2 or 3 are most important to you?
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If v4, I’m still getting good ROI from my Maker-X dual. If you want to run 12s or need a more robust solution, the horrible answer if you’re buying right now is that buying a conflict Unity is probably the way to go. I need to go disinfect my keyboard now.
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OMG ugh. Don’t buy from thieves
ESCs always come up for sale in here
https://forum.esk8.news/c/esk8-parts-market/used-parts-for-sale/16
and occasionally in here
and I think @torqueboards is getting close to having their ESC on the market which would definitely be recommended
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Define “reasonable”. What is your goal?
Easy
Good
Cheap
Pick any two of the above. “easy” means you can actually just go buy it, as opposed to building it yourself.
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Quick question
10s6p 30q Lacroix battery (pictured here)
Pgroup #4 is drifted
My question would be this: which one is it?
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Without answering your actual question, I’m going to say, if it’s not broken, don’t fix it. That doesn’t seem off very far at all.
If you balance all the P-groups then discharge it halfway, how far off is it? Is it even off?
Leaving it plugged into the charger for a while should balance it
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I don’t know. All I have to empty it is my old koowheel put wheels up and it seems to be very inefficient in discharging it without load
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It’s currently plugged and set to static balance. Charger is green as bms has cut it off
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why don’t we see more boards using an XLR style charge port rather than the much more common barrel jack?
as in to obtain or to build with?
A bit of both. No orientation required on a barrel and swapping with friends is easier
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hey computer guy!
what’s a good 10amp 5.5mm barrel jack charging in/outlets for 'puters?
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Perhaps a little foray into epoxy is needed
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Screenshot the voltages and leave it plugged in for 48 hours and see if they change
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