Haven’t tried anything yet, It’s still an idea.
Risers are less bad than folks make them out to be.
I’m not saying they’re good.
But it’s really a small effect IMO and the ability to never get wheelbite and carve harder often outweighs the downfalls of the additional height at center lean.
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while I totally agree here, if you don’t have wheelbite either way the lower ride height is more stable and offers more responsive carving as your ankles are closer to the point of rotation
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Well, that’s obvious.
not to everyone
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Took the new build out (w/ paralleled nese 12s2p + 12s3p P42A packs and a MakerX DV6) for it’s first real ride ~3 mile trip and put the board through it’s paces. All electronics are “sealed” in a waterproof nanuk case on top. Didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary. Performance was great.
Got to my buddy’s place, popped open the latches on the case, and almost immediately everyone in the room mentioned an “electronics” smell. Not burning, no magic smoke. The 3 people described it as “new chinese electronics smell”. None of them diy.
I was pretty worried so i poked around, removed/reconnected some connectors, took the batteries outside for awhile, but couldn’t find anything out of place. DV6 was warm, and it’s directly beneath one of the (PETG encased) packs, but that’s it.
Rode it home a couple hours later and disconnected everything.
Anyone have this experience before? How concerned should I be?
((((
Thats the video i saw and hfi still doesnt work very good.
What is your ld_lq_diff / Inductance ?
I have a question regarding the safety of the Positive Ramping Time within the vesc. I know that it’s basically a filter from the input on how fast it will deliver the current input from the remote and I currently have mine set to .05 seconds with no issues instead of the default .4 seconds. my question is would it be safe to go below .05? I was thinking about changing it to .02 or .01, I’m not sure how the effects would be though if it were at 0. For reference on my board I have a Spintend UBOX V2 and 6384 motors from Flipsky running 12s LiPo’s that can do 160 amps continuous so I’m not worried about the batteries being a bottleneck at all.
Does the vesc tool say anything ? How is the temp inside the box ? Temp on motors ?
I skimmed through your build only thing I could see was that your esc is in the box and no cooling, could get toasty
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Could be nothing, just keep an eye on it, my DV6 has been excellent for like 500 miles already
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my DV6 Pro gets a bit warm, never had an issue with ~300km in my first month on it though and I have my enclosure sealed up with foam and butyl magic
@sleepless I’ve noticed that smell you’re talking about too, I’m pretty sure it’s nothing, I first noticed it when I was soldering on phase plugs.
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My personal advice is don’t fix it if it’s not broken.
However, by updating, you are becoming a beta tester which helps everyone else out.
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I think it was around 16%. I can’t exactly remember the numbers but mighta been 0.8 and 5.
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Uhhh why can’t I see the private launch anymore? I was a level 3 user? 
Was my trust level lowered? How did that happen?
Sooo I want to set up my vesc for the first time. Trying to find some videos on youtube about it and someone said using your batterypack wouldn’t be good when starting programming your vesc. Would it be problematic? or can i just use my batterypack, unfortunaltely I do not own a lab power supply…
I’m not sure the reasoning behind not using a battery pack. As long as the battery voltage is less than the max voltage the controller can handle, you should be fine.
For a basic setup:
- Run the motor detection wizard
- Setup battery series number, pole count, gear ratio and tire size.
- Run the input wizard
- Ensure the motor spins the correct direction with your controller. If not swap phase wires & run detection again
- Adjust the motor current (you can start with mfg specs or leave the default from the detection)
- Adjust the motor negative current to something like -50A. This number is more or less low speed braking. Fine tune as you ride.
- Adjust the battery current (cell discharge rating x p group / number of motors. 12s3p P42A would be 3x30A = 90A / 2 motors = 45A)
- Adjust the battery regen current (cell fast charge rating x p group / number of motors). You may need to increase this 1.5x if your braking at high speed is poor, but it may impact battery life.
- Adjust the voltage cut-offs based on your battery
From there you can do more advanced fine tuning, but that should get you moving.
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Something about not a continous voltage. But I will use my batterpack then! Thank you for the extra information 
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i tagged u in the lounge, it didn’t say ur level won’t be able to see it, maybe u put it on muted?