You have a multimeter that can measure current. Have you tried doing so?
How about measuring the unload output voltage of the power banks?
You have a multimeter that can measure current. Have you tried doing so?
How about measuring the unload output voltage of the power banks?
@MysticalDork just did. Found out 2 of em don’t actually charge to 4.2 (gotta love Chinese made) the one in the first pic is from the cheapest of my powerbanks. I just saw the number jitter up for a second. And meter saw the voltage on the chip as variables between 4.05v and 4.21v so I’m hopeful again…after 5 fucking hours
@MysticalDork I’m trying to bring it back for a guy getting into diy. He bought the pack from someone who upgraded their pack. But it came with no bms. Got him to order a smart 100a bms and this is what he sent me when he plugged everything up.
@Cody Yes, much, much, much better
Only thing I see is that if your balance wires come from nickel that is connected to both a positive and negative cell end, attach the balance wire on the negative side of the cell. Less chance for abrasions to create shorts under vibration because the body of the cell the wire is wrapping around the end of, is at the same electrical potential.
So basically what you want to do is make sure you remember that order of operations matters
And select a top speed, I’d say 28mph (45km/h) to target. As you select your components, try to target that speed for a Loaded Speed in the calulator. Maximize (within reason) your
A) wheel pulley tooth count
B) motor Kv
within reason. For the rest of the parts, try to get the top speed to match.
Common combinations are things like:
Try not to go below 15T for a motor pulley.
If you target a top speed that’s too much higher than you’ll actually use, then you will unnecessarily lose torque and strain your ESC and lose hill climb power and range and reduce reliability.
Does the amp rating not matter on the BMS if you’re not using it for discharge? For example, 30q in 12s should be pulling 75 A continuous according to the calc, is a 12s BMS rated for 60 A good to go if Im only using it to charge?
If you’re bypassing it for discharge, it doesn’t matter if it has a discharge rating of 1A, or 1000.
What gear ratio would you recommend for:
10S / 190kV / ?:? / 110mm for 40-50kmh, rather closer to 40kmh?
I thought of 15T/40T, to not go under 15T, but that still gives me 47kmh weighted… I think I won’t ride faster than 40kmh, are there 42T level pulleys just out of curiosity?
Motor efficiency is around 90%?
On TB110, yes
I got a pretty vague tracking info and my English is meh…
Does this mean it’s in customs at the moment and will eventually pass it, or is it already “busted” and confiscated by them?
Sorry if it’s obvious… “is being held” sounds like it’s just for a short time, the customs check it, and hopefully I wont have to pay once more, right?
yeah its just being held for the moment and will eventually pass through
usps international are awful and mine was stuck in customs for like 2 weeks before moving
Yup, it’s the “Zollabfertigung” to check if you need to pay import/duty fees and or tax etc.
can take a day, or 3 weeks if you are unlucky
Hi,
i cannot post my used board for sale, anyone knows if there is a limit for new user?
Yes there is. Ping a mod to get it solved (its a spam protection)
(mmaner, billgordon, wandagoner are able to help you)
Does anyone know what Hobby King delivery times are like to the UK from selecting Global shipping?
For people familiar with Arduino and maybe even Heltec Lora 32 V2, i cant use my external display somehow… It just stays black…
Heres my code:
https://pastebin.com/ZZiq70g2
Heres the pinout diagram…
I thought i need Pin 18 for SCLK and Pin 23 for MOSI for hardware SPI, the rest should be pickable how one wants.
When you order one white Pixel from wish
What the hell is going on there
Dumb question, If you are using the esk8 calc, working out a DIY build do you duplicate the KV rating if you plan to use dual motors?