if it’s tightened too much
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@xsynatic This was only the first year.
@sebobo If you just continue to read on the forum you will earn new privileges. New users are restricted as a spam measure but those restrictions ease quickly if you read the forum.
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Oh really? Isn’t it that mostly bill visibly bumps new accounts?
(or maybe just the ones coming from the forsaken place?)
We’ll match levels for anyone coming from Gooch Junction, but we’re asking new members to now work their way through the Discourse trust level system.
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ooh, makes sense. Why build in a spam protection if it gets removed straight away. Big brain.
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Well, that and it makes it much harder for idiots to create fake accounts and engage. It’s a lot of work leveling up each time one gets deleted.
We just passed 3,000 signups, so it also became apparent that we should be more interested in quality than quantity at this stage.
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i lold
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Anyone know what size bullet connectors are on the 6384 APS motors?
i want to cover my pins (uart etc) with something to prevent shorting to the case or something. Is conformal coating or liquid tape better suited for that?
Maybe conformal coat everything and then put liquid tape on some spots?
I cover it all with acrylic coating and if you use actual purpose-designed electronic conformal coating (like MG Chemicals 419D, etc) instead of electrical tape or your girl’s nail polish, then you can solder through it later if you have to rework something.
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Yes, so coating everything with this
is safe enough to not put anything else over the connector, even if it is this:
yep it’s fine as long as it’s not exposed to abrasion
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If you’re concerned about abrasion, you should look into mechanical mitigations for that, like fishpaper or a plastic cover. Painted on coatings are a last line of defence, not a one-and-done solution.
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Not really concerned about abrasion, just the pin somehow making contact with the case itself. (talking about the bad jedbox case design. Fishpaper probably is to thick.
If a single layer of fishpaper is too thick, you have other problems. May I suggest using flush cutters to flush-cut the protruding terminals? And then use some fishpaper.
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Yes, what Ryan said. If it’s that close, cut those fuckers off. Maybe even remelt them afterwards to get rid of sharp edges. Then cover
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How probable is it that a belt tooth hits the exact same pulley groove multiple times in a row?
Took some 20km on riverside gravel today (1-2mm ~10-15mm) and got pebbles stuck everywhere, including pulleys 
Depends on the number of pulley and belt teeth. If they’re a mutually divisible ratio like 2:1, then they’ll stay in sync. If they’re not, then they’ll have to go around some number of turns to get back to the starting configuration.
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honestly that big ass black square fet just below the canbus will prevent case contact… I just looked at mine…
it’s just literally EVERY OTHER PIN on that board are way too long… I’m going to flush cut all mine… they’re like crazy long…
the thermal pad will probably keep you safe til it wears down then maybe magic smoke…
thanks for pointing this out… you should post it up on the NeoBox thread… how many peeps actually look under the thermal pad…
it’s crazy…
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ohhhhh boy… 
did you ever get in on the only prime numbers in gear-sets discussions…
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