Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

For some reason i was able to get dual motors working when i setup motors in foc. Could only get 1 motor to spin when i setup for bldc… anyways cheers

I personally never had issues with single idler 15:60 385mm belt

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My inner tubes are rattling, is that a sign of damage? I got them used, they are old but not ridden hard and hold pressure

What do you guys usually use for phase wire connectors?

Most ESCs come with 4mm bullet connectors, I’ve seen MR60 but they are all rated for ~30A.

Would a SP21 work since it’s also rated at 30A?

Or the LP-28…

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MR60s are manufacturer rated for 30A continous, 60A “peak”, but testing has shown that they survive 180A for 10 seconds without desoldering.

It’s all about heat management, and those ratings aren’t black and white.

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see: Phase & Sensor Wire Connector Discussion
see: [Wiki] Connectors and plug types

genuine Amass MT60 or MR60s (60A peak rated)
gold bullet connectors 4/5/5.5 mm (70A+)
GX12
M8

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I can’t seem to get this VX3 or this mini remote to do anything, VX3 has a wonky brake and the mini remote isn’t registering anything on ppm

Cool, thank you. The 395mm should be OK then. Found a twofer deal. Idk why this turd gotta be disseminatin 410mm falsehoods at me like that though, I don’t even know him. It’s like he wants me to buy the wrong belts as some sort of sick joke.

These in 4mm:

NOT these:

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Woah relax mate I’m just sharing my experience with those mounts. I’ve bought a lot of the wrong belt size by mistake and I’m just trying to help. Take a chill pill dude.

I am a joke. Sorry for calling you a turd. You didn’t have to make me feel bad, ya know. I’ll say it again though, 410s ain’t fittin with 16t motor and 60t berg pulleys. Nuh uh. Get ahhhta town.

Edit: I don’t do chill pills, I go straight for the hard

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Ok, just plugged this 12s3p pack into my 12s Daly + YZPower 12s 6A charger.

Charger fan is running while charging. Good to go. Fan starts shutting off and on - I assume it’s begun to balance. Charger stops - light turns green.

I check battery voltage with multimeter - 49.7V. What gives?

I assumed additional balancing would happen, but nothing appears to be happening. I’ll leave it on the charger awhile longer. Is this behavior as expected?

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So I know on simple or budget power supply or charger modules the red/green indicator LEDs can be wiiiildly loose in what they consider charged. For reference Big Clive on YouTube has a bunch of teardowns of (mostly ultra cheap) stuff that plugs in, lots of them have that flavour of indicator, he shows some hilariously low-detail indicator circuits. As far as I understand these chargers are much better than his stuff and I’d expect good regulation on the power rail, but to my relatively untrained eye it wouldn’t seem like a top priority to have spectacular accuracy on the LED.

To make a long story boring; I think the light is just a ballpark indication for when it has entered CV mode, and will slowly charge up to the final value

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Sounds like a software problem. Are you plugged into channel 2 on the receiver? Show me a photo of the wire connections.

Send screenshot of the App Settings > General screen and the App Settings > PWM (“PPM”) > General screen.

Whatever it is, this is simple to fix, I’m sure.

On my ol boosted stuff im pretty convinced green light does not mean full. If I pull it off the charger at green light, it will almost immediately drop from 5 lights to 4 and a blinking one. And that indicator light is in the board, not the charger.

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Whoa whoa whoa whoa hold up, we’re all here to help.

So the thing is, and it took me longer than I’d like to admit to figure this out, if you have just one wrong size or broken belt then you can so easily figure out belt sizes

Cut it so it’s not a loop anymore. Wrap the pieces around the installed pulleys. They don’t have to connect. Count the number of teeth the ideal belt size would have. Multiply that by 5mm. Order the correct size.

You’re welcome.

Oh okay, glad that was a joke. Cheers :beers:

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Depending on how the balancer and charger are designed to function it could take up to a few cycles to balance the pack. Measure your p-group voltages and track those.

49.70V for that pack is about an average of 4.14V/cell, not really low and easily just due to the pack voltage settling after charging…or balancing couldn’t be finished in one cycle…or charge is still trickling in even though the LED is off (that would be weird though)…or there’s resistance somewhere in the setup causing the charger to think the voltage is higher than it really is.

Remove a few hundred mAh from the pack and charge again, track p-group voltages in addition to pack voltage at the charger and balancer as they are the devices using the voltage to determine when to stop.

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Some of those style chargers do that. I think they got cheap with how they make them. Either there’s no hysteresis or the hysteresis is set wrong.

The fan will start going on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off for like ten minutes right at the top of the charge cycle. It’s just a wonky charger and annoying but it seems to work fine.

Just view it as an audible “I’m nearly done charging, you can ride now” signal.

This is a separate problem probably but not certainly unrelated to that.

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In desperate need of constructive criticism about this doodle which I spent more time on than I’d like to admit…

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Just go to 16s4p that looks awful

Awful to make, drawing is fine

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