HFI seems to be kind of fussy.
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Yeah the HFI needs to be re-tuned. First try not pulling the trigger as far under load and you start real gradually, does the horrible cogging not go away, but get reduced? Try increasing the HFI Max Voltage and also do the entire HFI setup again
Some motors just suck. I was not able to get HFI working on Racerstar 5065 140Kv motors no matter what. On TB6380 170Kv it works like magical fairy dust in my experience. Setting it up seems to be a tad gambling. I have not fully mastered that yet…
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Can you use a 12s charger for a 16s battery? … Or do I need to buy a new one?
no, yes
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Damn… Where do most get new Chargers? Ali I assume
I’m sure you can get one from an ebike supplier, but they speak in code and I don’t have a translator.
I speak “Volts” and “science” and they use funny abbreviations like “36V” when talking about a 42V charger.
So that’s why I don’t deal with those people.
But they probably have one, you’d have to check it with a multimeter to MAKE F***ING SURE it was 67.2V before you used it.
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damn… I thought for a second that a 12s charger on 16s would make a good bring it up to storage charger, but it’s too weak sauce even for that!
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100 is really low. The most expensive stuff is your remote and goggles xd thats like 50€+
I made a partlist for a cheap fpv drone but i chose to build an esk8
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I tried making one from that 1 yt channel and it was like 150 without remote znd goggles
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Yeah you’re right… 150$ is like the minimum if you get somewhat decent parts … Goggles and remote for 50$???
People spend 200$ minimum there.
A 150$ goggle is considered ultra budget. 
I’m confused
Yeah for cheap goggles
others can easily go up to 200€
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hey grease-ballz take your idle-FPV posts to a more appropriate thread!
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So I replaced a flipsky dual ESC with two Maytech v6 ESCs, and when I plug in one of my motor’s hall sensor cable all the lights go off on the ESC. I checked the pins with my multimeter, and there seems to be a near-short (21 ohms) between the black wire and the white wire (ground and H3/CS respectively). I think that’s an indication that I need to buy a new motor, right?
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White wire is the temperature sensor. It should have a resistance value that drops with higher temperature.
As for h1/2/3, you can spin the motor and the “shorts” should alternate between on/off. That’s what hall sensors do. Make sure you wired it properly
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The white wire is the temperature sense wire
The black wire is ground
The white wire is not +5V and would short out your ESC’s 5V rail if plugged in that way, and maybe cook your DRV chip
Do NOT plug it in like that again 
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Whoops! I misread the connector, plugged it in the right way but told you guys the wrong pins. Yeah black only ever went to ground, and the pin in question (white) is going to H3/CS with a 21ohm resistance
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Just realized I miss-reported the issue 
fixed the comment with an edit
White is temperature sensor! It should not go in h3.
If the colour coding is standard, red is 5v, black ground, white temperature and yellow/green/orange the hall pins. Please don’t kill your vescs
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this
I recommend not even using sensors at all, they just increase the risk of failure
I cut the sensor cable off the motors and never have sensor problems.