Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Higher kv = more amps. Amps + higher voltage = more power which can be geared for torque or high speed.

At some point the motor won’t be able to disapate all that heat though, and the whole sealed motor trend just makes that worse. IMO we need like 190kv on 18s with an open motor and a cooling impeller in the back

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Seems we’re getting a 24s capable vesc soon. I don’t think we have motors that wanna spin that fast lol. We’d need better low KV motors from what I understand.

Do I have to spin it with an external source? Because turning the motor with the vesc still results in 0KV

It sounds more like he’s playing with the remote, to toggle that beep. It’s not a great “dummy’s guide to ASS/VSS”.

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What really matters is copper fill. More copper = better performance.
If we talk torque per amps, lower KV is better. However, as you mentioned, the higher resistance is working against a better performance. Copper losses are proportional to the square of the torque produced by the motor, and at low RPM and high load they are dominant. Less torque output and higher RPM seams to be the escape. But…

In our experience, winding the same motor to different KVs, there is a sweat spot for a certain design at a certain voltage. I guess a certain wire thickness allows for optimum copper fill while still being good with resistance values. Also spinning the motors too fast creates heat via eddy currents. Gearing too high and having too high RPMs on the shaft may work against best efficiency!
We heat the stator via fast spinning magnets (core losses)… This happens even without any load.
And in that case going higher in KV is no good idea. So it all is a game in between core and copper (resistive) losses.

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Hi guys I know this is a bit of topic but did any of you guys ever used the mt60 connector on your build ?

I’ve seen people using the mr60 connector

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And for what I’ve seen they look like the metal connector parts are the same size
And I was pondering buying the mt60 for my board because they are slicker

Any thoughts on that?

Wrong thread, but yes, I’ve used them to make adapters for my Loaded hubs, and on a build where I wanted to minimize horizontal space. They are just as big of a pain in the ass to solder as MR60s. Only difference is shape. Go for it if you want

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Harder for me.

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How long do you guys think that 3D printed (ABS) axle spacers would last? Having a hard time finding 10mm ID spacers in the states.

Honestly both are easy to solder lol

12awg wire is super easy

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MT60 and MR60 will work the same, it just depends on your board. They both are made from the identical bullet connectors. Just make sure you get Amass brand connectors.

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Once you know the correct method it’s doable. But sometimes even tinning the wire will make the 12AWG too thick to fit in the bullet. Or if you don’t have enough heat the wire strands will get stuck and bend away. I hate it!

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Thank you for taking your time to write that detailed answer. I’ll calculate the area and see what will fit best! If I can get it working itll save me a hell of a lot of money :slight_smile:

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If the connector was too big to fit after tinning I just took a Dremel sanding bit to the wire real quick to shave down the size. Worked really well.

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Yeah that sounds all too logical to me :sweat_smile: I’ve had some fun trying to reshape a soldered blob with a pair of pliers

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copper wire is like the worst part of soldering.

Depending on how many you need, I may have enough to give you them.

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Surfrodz let’s you choose Canada in shipping so I would assume they’ll ship there.

just saw that, whoops

Thanks! These would be good for between bearings but I would need some ~24mm spacers for the axles. I’m using the BN270 hangers with extended axles and evolve 6" wheels. Printed out some 24mm spacers and they fit perfectly at the moment.

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