then i don’t know what else to try, maybe others will know
Most large BLDC motors use multistranded wire to make the winding easy.
Basically they don’t have many turns, usually in the range of 5-20 or so (more windings = lower KV), and if you wanted to fit as much copper as possible in the stator with a single solid wire, it would be a very thick wire that would be ridiculously stiff, and hard to wind.
So what most motor maufacturers do instead is to bundle together a bunch of thinner wires with a total cross section equal to the one big wire, and wind all of those instead. Same reason we like nice flexible silicone wire with lots of strands.
All this to say, no it really doesn’t matter exactly what the AWG of the wires you use are. What you want is the maximum possible amount of copper, while still having the right number of turns.
You can use two or three thicker wires, or like twenty or thirty super thin ones, as long as you get the turns and cross section right.
To figure out the cross section, you can measure/calculate the area of the stator slot, and then divide that by the number of turns you have to fit on there, then divide that by two (two sets of turns share one slot), and then divide that by the packing factor of 0.906. This will give you the absolute theoretical best-case amount of copper you can possibly fit in there, and you should probably shoot for about 70-85% of that.
Then you can divide that area per turn calculated above into however many strands of whatever gauge wire you have.
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I suggest a loopkey.
Pros:
Simpler
Cheaper
Less chance of failure
Super easy (and CHEAP) to replace if it ever DOES fail
Cons:
Might not look quite as fancy or clean as a shiny button.
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A loop key is a great fallback mechanism or hard disconnect. You can certainly use both, put the loopkey on the battery side of the antispark switch. Then it’s only in case something breaks or you need a hard reboot or to store the skate for months. You can also bury the loopkey in a place where it’s less ugly if you want to.
But if I had to pick one, right now, it’d probably be the loopkey. But you don’t have to pick one and loopkeys are crazy cheap.
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wow never thought about that. I will try that. Thank you!
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The angles work. I’m going to set it up DKP at first for the sake of curiousity, but the goal is to move to a TKP arrangement down the road.
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You da best, Bill
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Hey guys, anybody know what the best vesc options are currently? Couldn’t find any good threads on it atm. Also, is a dual vesc easier to setup than 2 singles? I tried to setup dual vescs a while back and couldn’t get it set up
Hey guys, I was trying to setup dual vescs a while back and was doing throttle mapping and somehow it activated the motor and the board went full speed into my wall and ripped the usb-c cord out of the vesc… long story short the usb-c port is loose and unusable. is there a way to setup this vesc via bluetooth? Or could i use it without doing the setup process via vesc tool, my battery has bms and I watch batt % while riding so i wouldn’t need the vesc batt cutoff. Also anyone know the easiest tutorial for dual vesc setup bc i obviously messed up. had problems setting up dual and just went to 1. but in winter i ride with pneumis and would really like dual bc pneumis are so dam slow
If you have a soldering iron you might be able to repair the USB-C port.
Any NRF based Bluetooth module would allow you to program using the official VESC app without USB. You can even create a TCP bridge so you can use the PC program.
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You should be able to use a CAN cable to set that vesc up if you have another one
I have a tutorial on my channel on how I set up the MakerX DV6, I think it should translate well. I’m going to do another Vesc setup tutorial eventually as well but idk when
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I accidentally shaved off some wires on my boosted stuffs motor wires, does anyone know off hand what those 9 pin connectors are called? XD zip tied everything but those wires and the wheel ate right through one.
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I think they may be called Juliet connectors? Or higo, I forget exactly which.
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technically both correct, but its known commonly as juliet plug, made by higo
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Nice! Thanks guys. I knew julet or higo, but google gave me different results. Prolly gonna move all my future builds to these, theyre waterproof and easy to connect once fully wired.
Okay, so quick question about batteries.
I was considering getting this one for my mountain board (which uses a single 60V motor):
https://egopowerplus.co.uk/products/batteries-chargers/ba5600t-10-amp-hour-battery
Mainly because it would allow me to drive, swap it for a full one when it is empty and charge the empty battery while driving with the full one.
However - 560Wh aren’t exactly a lot (at least compared to the battery I am getting for my street board, with 1400ish Wh), so I considered alternatives and found this:
https://egopowerplus.co.uk/products/batteries-chargers/bax1501-commercial-back-pack-battery
I would mount the plate that usually goes on your back to my board, so it would still be interchangable. It is IP56 rated, so pretty well protected and with almost 1600 Wh at 56V pretty neat in terms of capacity. Oh and I think the price isn’t bad either btw! (not compared to DIY - I am not ready for getting into that at this stage haha)
I am just wondering what the community thinks about that battery, so let please let me know =)
Don’t. Don’t do it.
Absolutely terrible value
Higo connectors are hard to source, and they are costly to buy from higo directly. I would reconsider if u just need something waterproof
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