Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Hey, to the Admins here, can we open a “VESC Repair” topic where people can offer their repair services, help eachother with repairs, etc? :slight_smile:

I knlw there’s probably only a handful of people into this but:
This could get more people into repairing
People could get their VESCs repaired instead of tossing them away

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Hey guys,

I was on a ride yesterday and got to test out my brakes on a really steep downhill road. My brakes were not as strong as I anticipated, fortunately I was testing it on a quiet suburban street during lockdown so I was able to safely carve it out before my speed got too high however I would like to sort it as I was in a particularly hilly area with tights paths and without the confidence in my brakes I did too much carrying of my board for my liking :frowning:

What i’m running - 2 x flipsky 6374’s on their 8inch pneumatic setup through the Flipsky dual fsesc 6.6 with 2x6S Lipos

My thoughts:

  1. I’ve been having some sensor issues (using an extension lead and it’s pretty tight still and i suspect i might not have sensors 100% of the time), would this impact max braking power, or does it just impact smoothness of braking?

  2. I’m around the 200lb mark is this just what I have to expect on a board like this?

  3. I’m a noob on the vesc settings so have kept most things default except the max power draw and battery cutoff settings. Maybe I need to tweak things, what settings are the right ones to tinker on for this?

Thanks

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3d files for pneumatic pulley 5m 70t or so?

Low speed braking’s primarily governed by max motor regen amps, while high speed braking is max battery regen amps. I think I have my pneumatic setup set at -20A battery and -25A motor, and that’s plenty strong enough to lock up the pneumatics in the rear.

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I have a question I want to use a lipo 12s pack where would I get a bms for this?

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check this thread:

any liion 12s bms would work if u do charge only wiring

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Actually easier since the nut can pass over them unlike the XT-30. Ask me how I know.

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I think I shaved down my xt30 a hair to squeeze through the 5.5x2.1 nut.

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Your best bet is probably a primer, such as 7649 or 7471. Make sure the screw and hole are very clean by applying a vigorous solvent like acetone or MEK (They can easily damage plastic lenses though, so remove them first, and dry the frames thoroughly of any remaining solvent before reinstalling them).

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There are two settings to change re: brakes:
Motor braking current, and battery regen current.
Motor current mostly affects the braking power at lowish speeds.
Battery regen current mostly affects braking power at medium to high speeds.
Increasing the value of these will improve your braking performance. Play around with them and find settings you like.

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You have to make this request to @longhairedboy and @jamie if you want the admins to see it.

i think a “vesc repair” kind of category is a good idea. Im on a tour of iceland at the moment but i can probably add it later at the hotel.

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No rush, enjoy Iceland! :slight_smile:

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hi,
got a 3ds drive and the key is stuck in the motor pulley
any advice on removing it?

Hot hot heat

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tried
blow torch for around 20 seconds
the whole thing got to hot for me to touch
i tried pushing it with a flathead but it still wouldnt come out

Lol
You want it so hot that it instantly incinerates your skin. Blow torch for 3min.

I can’t believe you are still asking these questions Shua!

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Hey guys just wanted to check in and see if this is of any concern.

Today I got a “FAULT_CODE_DRV” on one of my brand new Trampa MK6 VESC. Motors seem to be working fine after the issue and I was able to ride home with no further issue.

Triggered while going over a dirt mound at 90 motor amps at 5-8mph. (63100 motors on a 10s10p p42a using a QS8 battery connector and soldered motor connections)

Sometimes I notice on max acceleration there’s also a micro cutout that does not trigger any fault code. I kind of hear that motor click on and off noise when it happens. I have fault timeout set to 40ms so it could be a fault, but it’s odd that it never gives me any message if that is the case… running sensorless hfi if that helps

Is this still “safe”?

A punch and a hammer.
If that doesn’t work, torch the shit out of it (you want it well above 250 degrees celsius), and THEN a punch and a hammer.

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Real men use their hands

1 Like