Thanks for the quick reply. So as I understand it, there are two settings, battery power and motor power. Based on the note, it sounds like they set the motor power to 45A but didn’t mention what the battery Amps are set to. So I’ll need to connect via Bluetooth to see what the battery amps were set to. Does that sound right?
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Well I suppose if they set the motor power to 45 each, that is pretty low.
There are two two settings though, Maximum Battery Current, and Maximum Motor Current.
For the DV6, I had no issues running it on my personal rig at 50 battery per side and 80 motor per side.
Could you paint an enclosure? I made a graphic and wanted to implement it on the enclosure as well. Would spraying clear work as well to protect the paint?
I want to glue som small LED strips under my board as I am required to have lights if I wanna ride in the dark. How do I use my 42 V battery to power 12 V led strips?
42v to 12v buck converter
actually u don’t need to have that specific voltage, as long as the buck convert can convert 42 to 12, then it will work, most of them have a range that it will work with
or what @GnomeMeansNo said below 
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If you wanna get fancy there’s also this thing:
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Alright. Today’s the big day where I solder the BMS, I got everything lined up and ready to go. Just making sure everything is in the correct place, does everything look right? Also should I add bullet connectors to where the charge port goes so I can disconnect it or reconnect it whenever? (Got photos having it lined up, don’t have my harness in the house currently)
A decent hand file should make short work of that - easily less than 30 seconds. Obviously you have to slow down near the end to avoid damage to the board, but it shouldn’t be that hard. File, dremel, angle grinder, a sanding block, any will work.
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will try
Files seem to have a reputation of being slow and archaic. It’s not true. A good file can remove quite a bit of material in a hurry.
Obviously power tools can do better, but especially on soft materials like brass, an old fashioned hand file can hold its own easily.
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It would probably be better to draw a diagram of which wire is going where. Your balance wires are just sitting there so theres no way to tell how you’re going to connect them.
Two 5s im assuming as it’s a 10s bms. Do you have your series connector for them?
Where are you connecting your negative wires?
Yes I got my series harness, so for battery one I’m connecting the BMS harness balance wires up to N4 for battery 1, skipping N5. For battery 2, I connect them all the way to the black wire. For the charge port, the positive goes to the main positive line in the harness that’s connected to the two batteries, the fuse is connected to the -C of the BMS, going to the negative wire. Am I right?
A good file is one of my favorite tools
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reach out to hoytskate@hoytskate.com so I can share with the appropriate folks. will prolly want to get on zoom/facetime to troubleshoot.
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draw a diagram
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Sounds right. But a diagram would explain it perfectly. Just double and triple check before you put power to it. Good luck
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Success! I did forget heat shrink, might just add electrical tape but, I made a mistake and totally forgot so I had one of the balance extender plugs on my lipo, I cut the plug off that was going to the BMS harness and it sparked, luckily it wasn’t on all the way and I got it off very fast. Resulted in this happening to the plug on the lipo. The little pins from the balancer extender came out, tried the other extender and it went in so not sure if I did something to the lipo itself
Here’s the plug for the battery (is it still good? Or did I just fuck up my battery)
Here’s the other connector ready to go for battery 1 (the battery plug)
One of the cardinal rules of working with battery stuff is to NEVER EVER cut multiple wires at once. Only ever have one wire cut, stripped, or otherwise exposed in any way.
There is no off switch on a lipo battery. They’re always angry.
That looks pretty crispy to me. As long as you can still plug the mating connector into it all the way and get a good connection on each and every wire, then it’s probably OK.
If not, you just fucked your battery.
Those connectors can be replaced, but they require a level of care that you haven’t demonstrated yet to be done safely.
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Yes, I know the caution of a battery, especially Lipos. It’s not like when it sparked I stood there with a finger up my ass and just let the battery explode. It didn’t smoke, didn’t swell up, I plugged in the second extender just to see if everything is good, a few pins from the other extender fell out, I could feel a bit of electricity on the solder joints, might be good, but as you can see, I haven’t been doing this shit for 30 years. Sure you made the same mistake I did today, we’re not perfect. All a learning curve