i have, they bald before u can get home
yes, those are pretty common. Just make sure it’s specced properly for your charger/battery
I want to frit a deck, but it’s got some concave to it. Any tips on preventing epoxy from just pooling all in the middle when curing?
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I had a yzpower 8A charger that had a very similar issue. I didn’t ever blow a fuse, but I killed an outlet switch and there was visible corrosion damage on the connector after only like 3-4 uses.
It’s really weird… Its like a 0.7€ component at my local hardware store. Don’t think they are this cheap with it! Though last time I asked here, @ xsynatic said that he has the same charger and it doesn’t spark. Maybe they have something, but it’s busted already. Though I inspected my charger and there is no built in NTC. Maybe they used a different way to limit inrush? Not sure.
Yes, I killed an outlet switch like that. Survived the inrush of my charger about 10 times or so… Wasn’t a particularly new or a good quality one though. YMMV. Didn’t really feel like trying it with a 30$ outlet switch though to see if it blows too or works fine…
@Chemlut In your case I would try to contact Trampa. Don’t think it’s a design flaw.
An update on my case though! I opened up the charger and the solder quality looked… Lets say questionable at best. Plenty of cold joints, some joints didnt have good enough wetting, some had too much solder… Overall soldering quality was pretty bad. But no burn marks. I sent the pictures I took to @ seaborder and he said that something is likely wrong in my charger. We suspected a bad connection somewhere, but he said that some parts likely haven’t liked the inrush and it’s consequences either.
In the end I talked to @ Anubis and ended up with a steep discount for a replacement charger, I ordered a 4A one. Can’t wait for that package to arrive. Once it arrives and I change out the parts I also ordered and take some pictures of the finished board, I will update my build thread with this charger story too.
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There are part numbers in here
I think you should be able to find the same manufacturer part numbers in Germany, maybe?
IDK but the voltage and current rating is what matters, and the current rating matters more
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I’d say use multiple thin layers, and a slightly faster-curing (1-2 hour vs. 8-24hr) resin. Also could look into thicker, less runny resins.
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Now that you bring that up, I wonder if there are any clear thickeners I could buy. I’ll look into it
Thanks!
Very weird stuff, I can’t remember if I linked it when you were asking about it the first time but EEVBlog on YouTube does teardowns and analyses of lots of equipment and rips them to absolute shit if they skimp on stuff like an NTC. The other tactic occasionally used (not nearly as common as an NTC) is an inrush limiting inductor.
It would be weird to put one of those directly on the AC input because it would be constantly presenting an AC impedance, but it could be after the rectification stage just before the bulk capacitance. I assume it doesn’t have one, but if it does it would be one of the bigger passive components.
I’ve never seen a clear thickener.
The best thickener I know of is fumed silica, but it’s bright white.
You could try keeping the epoxy cold while it sets - The colder it is, the thicker it’ll be, but also the slower the set time will be.
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think I’ve seen someone use flywheel style pulleys?
There are thick and thin resins. Reguardless of what you have just let it set up in the cup alittle before working with it. It will set up faster the longer it is in the cup. Once you apply it in a thin coat it will take hours longer to gel and stop self leveling. I like to let it pre-kick in a cup before I use it. Thin coats are best and reapply while first layer is still tacky. Use a space heater to speed all this up and get in several coats a day. Also use a hairdryer to heat up the resin when mixing…it gets it really thin and helps it mix well while reducing air bubbles .
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This is really key! If using fine frit there is no need for a lock-coat. Medium needs a second one over it.
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I’ll keep all of this in mind especially keeping it thin haha. Thanks for all the tips 
How much breaking is too much breaking? Thinking about battery over-charging etc.
Or is this safe to do as long as my battery isn’t fully charged up.
why is that still a thing? how come we dont have a cutoff voltage on our regen brakes? like, have regen turn off/on at a couple volts under the bms cutoff. @Trampa get on that. couldnt there just be a cutoff level for it where it starts instead of taking back the energy from the motor, actually applying it in the other direction?
Any breaking is too much. You ideally want no breaking at all.
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Judging from todays ride to work, that did the trick. Thanks a bunch!
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Give the guy a brake! 
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…ok
But what about battery health, regen and over charging?
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