I ride Onsra 115mm gummies. They’re not all terrain. Gummies are street wheels with extra comfort and grip for which you pay with range. The range penalty seems to scale with rider weight more than harder PU’s which squish less.
P.S. I’m a klutz with the reply system.
I don’t intend on going off roading, just making some of the road riding smoother like you described. not sure about the quality of the clones though.
Should be okay for that. Just make sure you have a pulley for them. I’m guessing another con for rubber is that the wheels tend to wear out quite fast, compared to PU’s.
What would you use for pulleys?
Beat me to it.
I think @ShutterShock used wheels like these before, he might have a video on his channel for them, but I’m not sure.
As for pulleys, boundmotor sells them, but I think only with a set of wheels 
Thanks for the shout - I have used them, the Eovan RF 125mm ones though, not the smaller version.
There’s a thread on the ones that I have ridden:
I will be doing a review on them soon ish as soon as I get around to it, have a lot of videos in queue.
Okay thanks for the answer, i will be looking into these options. The plug already shows some signs of damage and having to reset the electrical fuse in my house when i plug my charger in is super annoying too
Yeah all of what you’re saying looks right, but it sounds very weird that a decent company wouldn’t have proper limiting on their chargers given how easy it is to build into the design with an NTC. Is it just the case that nobody bothers and there’s no way around it?
I generally just use a power strip with an on off switch to avoid this problem.
Anyone know where I can get some adapter plates for Hypertruck mounts? For 44mm hole pattern motors?
Yeah I would do assume that’s the answer too but there was another person (@Dinnye i think?) who managed to blow a power strip by doing that
My guess is that it’s an edge case - @Chemlut’s breakers may be old and extra-sensitive (breakers tend to become more sensitive over time, not less). It probably didn’t trip the breaker when it was being designed or tested, and it was within whatever maximum allowable inrush standard was set, and that was good enough.
i have a belt slightly to tight (not much free roll) and squeeks a little when turned
but still has some flex and can be got on and off easily
best solution
bolts loctited in place so a bit of a pain to remove
i have, they bald before u can get home
yes, those are pretty common. Just make sure it’s specced properly for your charger/battery
I want to frit a deck, but it’s got some concave to it. Any tips on preventing epoxy from just pooling all in the middle when curing?
I had a yzpower 8A charger that had a very similar issue. I didn’t ever blow a fuse, but I killed an outlet switch and there was visible corrosion damage on the connector after only like 3-4 uses.
It’s really weird… Its like a 0.7€ component at my local hardware store. Don’t think they are this cheap with it! Though last time I asked here, @ xsynatic said that he has the same charger and it doesn’t spark. Maybe they have something, but it’s busted already. Though I inspected my charger and there is no built in NTC. Maybe they used a different way to limit inrush? Not sure.
Yes, I killed an outlet switch like that. Survived the inrush of my charger about 10 times or so… Wasn’t a particularly new or a good quality one though. YMMV. Didn’t really feel like trying it with a 30$ outlet switch though to see if it blows too or works fine…
@Chemlut In your case I would try to contact Trampa. Don’t think it’s a design flaw.
An update on my case though! I opened up the charger and the solder quality looked… Lets say questionable at best. Plenty of cold joints, some joints didnt have good enough wetting, some had too much solder… Overall soldering quality was pretty bad. But no burn marks. I sent the pictures I took to @ seaborder and he said that something is likely wrong in my charger. We suspected a bad connection somewhere, but he said that some parts likely haven’t liked the inrush and it’s consequences either.
In the end I talked to @ Anubis and ended up with a steep discount for a replacement charger, I ordered a 4A one. Can’t wait for that package to arrive. Once it arrives and I change out the parts I also ordered and take some pictures of the finished board, I will update my build thread with this charger story too.
There are part numbers in here
I think you should be able to find the same manufacturer part numbers in Germany, maybe?
IDK but the voltage and current rating is what matters, and the current rating matters more
I’d say use multiple thin layers, and a slightly faster-curing (1-2 hour vs. 8-24hr) resin. Also could look into thicker, less runny resins.
