Amazon is usually like, let’s say £10 with prime shipping, and when you go on ebay it’s £5 with £4 shipping lol.
Obviously not those specific rubber gaskets
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Is there a thread that explains loop keys, anti spark switches, and fuses for electric skateboards, or could someone explain it. For some reason, it’s really confusing me.
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youi can search in the right corner, there are multiple loop key threads
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Is it skipping on hard braking? Because if it’s not broken, then not fixing it would be my suggestion. If it skips on hard braking, then that’s another story.
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Okay, thanks
For the loop keys:
Fuses (from our dearly departed Sydney):
Anti-spark info is all over the place, so I’ll just say this: Right now, other than the Flipsky Enhanced Switch (which I just pulled out of service), there are almost no reliable and available anti-spark switches. This will change, but for now, go with a loop key and wait for the market to hook us up.
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Ok, thanks. I will try reading up on loopkeys
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if you have a 3d printer you can print a holder to pull it out easily
What happened to Gamergirl - the thread is such a cliffhanger. I want to know what she does at Nvidia.
the crux of understanding loop-keys/anti-spark is to understand that they are a means to disconnect a battery from the remainder of the board.
simply plugging in a battery with an XT60/XT90 will cause a GREAT inrush of power and a “spark”
this where anti-spark derived it’s name
a look key is made with an XT90s that has a resistor to limit the inrush and pre-charge the capacitors in the system safely (when used correctly)
anti-sparks USUALLY have a definite and finite life due to design or components…
@Gamer43 has a design, and flipsky has one… but the flipsky one is crap… I hear @haggyboard.timo has one in the mill based on Gamer’s design…
that’s the 2 minute version now get to searching and reading
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she HE was a troll, linked directly to Jason…
do the math
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The spark comes from contact bounce. All wires have a nontrivial parasitic inductance. When the connection is first made, there is a large inrush current. Because of the contact bounce, this current is made and broken several times, in which the wire inductance causes it to arc. This damages contacts because the energy stored in this parasitic inductance is basically dumped into the contacts. While it is a very small amount of energy, it is a very large amount of power because it is over a very short time.
The resistor in XT90S basically limits the initial inrush current so that when contact bounce happens, it is a much lower current that gets made and broken, and as such, less energy stored in the parasitic inductance. Energy, and thus power, is proportional to the square of current.
Solid state switches do not have contact bounce, but they need means to limit the inrush current because transistors cannot switch instantaneously and will fail due to the brief but massive power dissipation from switching off to on and vice versa.
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I feel that’s basically what I said, but in more general laymens’ terms as the OP was already confused!
but your expertise is always appreciated!
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Just don’t plug in your loopkey in slow motion.
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i don’t think that matters,
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OH YES IT DOES
leave the loop installed part way and the tiny resistor will fail rendering your loop key non-operational…
oh i thought you couldn’t do it too fast, but my key still works
fast gUUD, slow or part way installed you’ll smell it burn
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So would I just leave the key in, and use the power switch to turn the board on and off. Then if there is a emergency, pull the key?
the loop-key is the switch