What deadband settings did you set in vesc tool for your remote? Also a longer positive ramping time could reduce the jump.
I was referring to the tiny little ceramic caps on the NRF PCB. All of the pins got pressed together when I was pushing it through some heat shrink tubing- it worked until I did that. I sort of did things out of order, and I heat shrinked the NRF PCB, and glued it down with hot glue, before adding heat shrink to the wires. I should have had it disconnected.
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Fair. I feel like stuff gets lost on Noob questions.
Anyways. Setup is dual sk8 6374 192kv. Vanpro mini trigger remote.two 6s turnigy 12mah 12-25s in series. So 12s. Apex bms.
Formerly focbox unity, currently stormcore 60d+.
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I don’t think I’ve ever actually sat down to do dead-band settings. Just ppm mapping.
I’m pretty sure that remote needs to have its fail safe and set to zero but I forget how to do it
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I set my failsafe before. Let me look into that article a bit more
If I were to fill in a truck mounting hole on a deck to redrill it, should I epoxy a dowel in, fill with fiberglass+epoxy, or just epoxy (milliput)? Which would be the sturdiest solution?
1 - will the voltage cutoff start send any sort of alert to the remote? (Running Flipsky dual fsesc 6 with a VX2)
2 - getting a slight variance between kms travelled on my remote vs gps app (remote says 14.8 and gps says 13.8), is this normal for hilly riding or do I need to tweak the remote settings. I’ve got wheel diameter set to 198mm for 8in tyres but maybe it should be 200 (see both recommended in different places)
Thanks guys
is there an order to follow when plugging in and charging and removing the charger e.g. wall>board>power ON
power OFF>remove wall>remove board
With some chargers (usually the cheap ones) you’ll get a spark if you do:
Charger into board then into outlet
But it doesn’t really matter.
I normally plug into the wall then board, and removing in any way
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So…axles into hangers, red thread locker…and…
How much torque am I screwing the axles down with? Just until they stop? Really snug? A bit extra?
Any thoughts or expertise is greatly appreciated. 
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I’m a noob, but i used loctite 648.
Then handtightened till it stopped, and snugged it with moderate pressure using this universal thing.
I used this so i wouldn’t strip or snap anything.
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When I got my set I used blue loctite and then just cranked them down, and they haven’t budged since.
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I just purchased a carbon deck (Evoan Pro) for a glow up on my board. I heard that with a carbon deck you’ll have Bluetooth connection issues, any way I can fix this? Perhaps tactically positioning my electronics somehow? I’m using a Unity with VX2 Pro, thanks guys
Yep! It’s an external bt rx you can have it outside of your enclosure. But this is only really necessary if you have a metal/carbon/some other conductive enclosure/deck combo
“Really snug” is a good number
I didn’t use any loctite on mine and the never budged
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My man, thank you! Another question, I just read that carbon fiber decks are conductive af and can cause fires. If there’s any shorts or if the carbon fiber lid touches the VESC and heats up then the lid touches the battery if isn’t fully sealed in the heat shrink can lead to fires… shit man lol is there anyway to prevent this? Perhaps wrapping my battery in fish paper to be sure? I’ve heard there’s many numerous cases like this
You can pretty well isolate your battery from a carbon fiber enclosure with proper use of neoprene padding and fishpaper.
It’s not too awful, but it really depends on how much space you’ve got in the enclosure. As for the vesc and connections, you just have to be careful where you place things. Also, the type of carbon fiber makes a difference, once piece builds that are covered in epoxy are much less of a risk versus bare fiber.
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Carbon fiber isn’t any more conductive than metal (in fact it’s less). Just treat it as if it were bare metal and insulate accordingly, and you’ll be fine.
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