Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Is there a coupon code to use at Metro Boards??

Oops, this was a question to all. Don’t know why it’s replying to you specifically lol

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Am I doing something very wrong that I can’t get dickyho motor mounts to stay in place? I’m using it on caliber IIs and can’t get it to stop torquing itself free and slapping the motor into the deck or road. Have both grub screws in place as far as I can torque them without stripping the Allen, and the the end bolt tightened down the same. Scratched the shit out of two motors now. The only thing I can think I did wrong is that I’m fairly sure I stripped the Allen head on the grub screws that shipped with it and couldn’t get conical head ones to properly cut into the center ring, and I’m using cup head grub screws instead

do you need to disconnect hall sensors with ass?

Ass?

advanced sensorless startup

Seems like you need temp sensors, but the hall sensors don’t need to be working. But iirc the temp sensor connectors will be on the same one as your hall sensors, so I think they will need to be connected.

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Unplug all sensor wires from the JST apart from temp and then connect it to the vesc.

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Anyone know the pole count in loaded x unlimited / neo hubs?
Edit: from photos looks like 14

When you guys slap a heatsink onto an esc like the xenith, do you use thermal compound like on pcs or like a thermal pad? Or is it more optional and not really affect performance?

for flat surfaces thermal paste otherwise pads, there needs to be contact for heat transfer

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The proper way is not just bolt up and done?

You can bolt them up and be done or you can use a tad of thermal paste which will perform a little better, but just the dry heatsink will be far, far better than the naked ESC.

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Nothing<<thermal pad<<thermal paste. But given the generally large contact area and generally low thermal load (a few tens of watts at most, usually), even straight metal-to-metal is usually more than adequate, as long as both surfaces are moderately flat. It’s not anywhere near as critical as a computer heatsink, where you have tens or hundreds of watts in an area of ~0.5 square inches.

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do I need to charge my lipos before setting up vesc? they are at 30% from shipping. also when charging I wouldn’t need my loop key in?

No

Under typical bypass wiring, you do not need your loopkey in while charging. Your loopkey breaks the circuit to the load (esc + motors). The charge port is wired to the battery (with fuse), through the BMS.

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I have actually never heard of thermal paste, thanks for the explanation. Just when I thought I was getting out of the noob label lol! Still lots to learn.

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200w

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You don’t need to charge them to set up VESC, but I’d recommend charging them to at least storage voltage before doing anything further with them. IDK about your batteries but mine were plastered with warning stickers to bring them up to storage after opening as soon as possible.