Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Im about to order caliber baseplates for my evo build.
I understand the spectrum 40" has 10 degree wedge and dewedge?
Should i go with 50 or 44 degree? How will it behave diffrently from eachother. Also, will there be clearance issue with the BN M1 drives with 44->34 degree plate?

Can I install smaller axles on my apex airs if I want to run urethane? Or perhaps 22 od 10 id bearings? These axel ARE 10mm right? What would be recommended?

I wasnt sure the best place to ask this so I am here…

I am wondering about changing the gearing on the Flux, and wonder what I should expect it to do to the esc, heat wise, and to the battery, efficiency wise.

wonder if would be much of a change…

I think most of the time I run my gearing way more towards having torque.

on the Flux on 8 inch wheels I am running 14/72 (5.14) on 190kV.

I love the torque. I am never fully pegging the trigger.

but I am thinking I need to try 15/72 (4.8) to see what that is like.

the Llama is faster than I usually make my boards and I am liking the mid band acceleration.

what should I expect to see going from 14 to 15.

couple more miles top speed. that might be nice for the last few miles of the battery…

I wonder if the torque will be a big change.

will this likely demand more from the ESC?
will it heat more?
or is it magically a sweeter spot and everything will run better?

I guess I will find out if I try right…

everyone seems to run lower gearing than me on their carvers…

the flux is 12s10p 30q. unity now on 23.64. TB 6380 190kvs.


The extra speed will hurt your range (assuming your average top speed increases) somewhat. Not a huge difference between 14 and 15/72 though, so i wouldn’t expect a huge difference anywhere.

with a 10s3p 21700 molicel p42a pack what should my cutoff start/end be in vesc?

Assuming your ESC is connected directly to the battery without a BMS in the middle:

Single ESC: 90A battery max, -45A battery min
Dual ESC: 45A battery max, -22A battery min

These are the settings I would use, but if you are worried about cell life and want to keep within cell limits, and don’t care about weaker brakes, then do -25A battery min for single, -12A battery min for dual.

Edit: oh, read the question wrong. Voltage cutoffs? Depends. Maybe like 34V cutoff start, 30V cutoff end? There’s a thread you can read about some other people’s settings:


i by mistake stuck 50v into my imax b6 mini
any chance i can bring it back to life?

Probably not.


There was an incident and my axle was bent.

Thinking of buying a piece of pipe to slot over it and gently jump on it to bend it back.
My friend said best to leave it bent as bending it back will weaken it further which does sort of make sense to me.
It’s actually mostly bent down due to the bizarre nature of the incident rather than up as you would get if you landed some wicked air.
There is very little toe in or toe out to the bend. So it doesn’t seem to cause much issue.
It does mean the belt rides 2mm out of track at the top of the wheel pulley.

a) rebend it
b) leave it
c) spend a whole bunch of money on new trucks (my least favorite option)

A new truck is the best option. What country are you in?


I’m new to soldering and I understand how to get the bullet connectors on the ESC and the motor, but for my remote, it says to connect one wire to the positive terminal of the battery:

You can see that one the picture to the right, they just soldered onto the board. If I’m understanding this correctly, do I even need more solder? Or can I just heat up the solder already there and stick the wire into it?

Sorry if this is a really noob question, just making sure I’m doing everything correctly


put it at the other end of the wire when you’re soldering your xt90 on, it will be easier


Can anyone direct me to screws that are going to be rust resistant but also strong enough for things like motor mounts (12.9 grade steel, but also stainless?). It’s been so humid recently a bunch of my screws started rusting lol.

I personally would use 12.9 and accept the rust.

There is no 12.9 stainless

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You will need to tin the wire (melt solder onto it) first, before you try to integrate it into the existing solder pool. Otherwise there’s no way to ensure that the new wire actually is wetted with the solder, rather than just being mechanically stuck in there.

Like Muf said, it would probably just be easier to do it on the other end.


What Brian said.

If you absolutely MUST have stainless and maximum strength, there are high-strength stainless screws made of alloys such as 17-4PH or A286, but be prepared to spend a couple dollars or more per screw.


Got it, I’ll just deal with it and save my wallet the tears :joy:

Thanks guys

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You can dip your black-oxide steels screw heads in molten wax or wipe them with some light oil, which will absorb into the semiporous oxide layer and improve the corrosion resistance. Obviously avoid getting oil on the threads where it would interfere with threadlocker.


Try wiping the bolts with a paper towel soaked with a drop of Loctite

Never tried it, but it may work to prevent rusting?

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